Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 07, 2017, 05:19:10 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 07, 2017, 07:38:32 pm
http://www.car-part.com There are several in the Dubuque area. Some in Michigan and Ohio, too. Just put in the car and part name and your zip code.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 07, 2017, 07:44:33 pm
Post by: Raydar on April 07, 2017, 11:37:25 pm
I left the trailing arms alone.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 08, 2017, 06:09:18 am
The control arms, knuckles, and wheel bearings are next.
Post by: Raydar on April 08, 2017, 11:16:22 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 08, 2017, 11:37:37 am
Why are there control arm bushings for the '88?
Post by: Raydar on April 08, 2017, 08:37:09 pm
The trailing link is the long link that joins the very bottom of the knuckle with the front of the cradle rail. That link provides the front-to-rear positioning of the knuckle, and also absorbs most of the impact when you hot a pot hole. (For that reason, I left rubber bushings in my trailing links.)
So yeah... Six bushings on each side, in the rear. that's it.
The two bolts that connect the strut to the top of knuckle are loosened to adjust the camber (tilt) of the rear wheel. The bottom hole is slotted, allowing adjustment. The top of the wheel can be tilted in or out. When the setting is correct, the bolts are tightened. (Or a cam bolt can be used, to assist the adjustment.)
The only real control arms, on the 88, are in the front. One upper, and one lower, on each side. Each arm has two bushings.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 10, 2017, 06:35:01 pm
Like that?
Post by: Raydar on April 10, 2017, 08:08:27 pm
Found an image:
Like that?
Yup. The two links that go straight vertical in your pic are the toe link and lateral link. The toe link should be towards the front, however. The solid lateral link should be the rearmost link. (I'll check to make sure. If I'm wrong, I'll edit my comment.)
The link that goes upward in the pic at a ~45 degree angle is the trailing link.
The wide silver thing between the two parallel links is the knuckle. Hard to distinguish where it's pointed in the pic, but it points up towards the top of the shock tower. The bottom of the strut is fastened to it, with two 24 mm bolts.
It's much prettier than mine.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 10, 2017, 08:42:38 pm
Post by: Raydar on April 11, 2017, 09:15:11 pm
Mine, too:
...
Yours is prettier than mine, too.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 11, 2017, 09:18:57 pm
I don't know about your other car, but wouldn't the torque of the 4.9 in the blue-grey car be too much for anything worse than mine?
Post by: Raydar on April 14, 2017, 02:01:44 am
You're being modest. Mine is rather rough.
I don't know about your other car, but wouldn't the torque of the 4.9 in the blue-grey car be too much for anything worse than mine?
I'm not sure I understand the question.
When I had the swap done, poly bushings were mandatory (for an extra fee, of course.) If I had it to do over, i would have insisted that the trailing links (the long ones) remained rubber.
They also reinforced the front cradle rail with a welded-in steel plate. There is no dog bone, but the engine is mounted at five points, including the trans mounts.
I believe you could pick up the car by the engine, and shake it until the body panels fell off, and the engine would still be securely mounted.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 14, 2017, 07:40:06 am
Uh-oh. My tri-links are all poly. Will I lose teeth?
Post by: Raydar on April 14, 2017, 08:44:15 am
Hitting a pothole is more "sudden" and imparts more front-to-rear shock to the chassis than acceleration forces - even strong ones. Since the trailing link only locates the wheel front-to-rear, the alignment will hardly be affected at all.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 14, 2017, 05:52:32 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 24, 2017, 06:29:04 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 24, 2017, 07:02:13 pm