Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: ron768 on February 14, 2016, 10:17:55 pm
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When I pulled the ecm from the car at the strip yard, I didn't pay attention to what it was. So, is there a way to find out what car the 1227730 ecm came out of?
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There should be a 4 character broadcast code. AKYZ or something like that.
That will tell what it came from. If it's not printed on a label on the outside, it should be on the blue MEMCAL (chip carrier assembly) on the inside, under the small cover. It may be stamped on a silver label on the chip, visible through the hole in the blue cover.
The one I have here has a silver label on the inside, visible through the hole.
Says:
DELCO
AUXW
3817
It's also from a 7730.
With that said...
There is a small handful of programs that people start with, in order to run the Fiero. Which one depends upon whether you want to keep the distributor, or switch to DIS (coil packs.)
A new chip (or at least a new program) will likely be needed, anyway, so it's not terribly critical what it came out of.
You will need some sort of crank sensor to run DIS, I think. I think people have added them to the harmonic damper.
f85gtron has already done this swap. He would be... "da man".
TopNotch also posted a thread with a video.
http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1860.0
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Ron,
Yours reads
DELCO
ADRA
3008
It's from a 1987 2.8 auto. When I'm finished with it, It will be BAWX, which is the latest (1991) version of broad cast code for 60° v6 manual with dizzy that gm released.
The only thing you have to watch out for when grabbing the ecm From the junk yard is the memcal because of the knock sensor stuff in it. An 8cyl stays with 8 cyl and 6 with 6. Its said you're not supposed to mix and match......not sure why though.
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Found this info:
Manufacturer code LB6 (2.8 v6)
Engines family GM 60° V6
Fuel gasoline
Cubic capacity 2 837 ccm (173 cui)
Year of production 1985 - 1989
Fuel preparation Multi-point fuel injection (MPFI)
Camming OHV
Cylinders 6 / Furcate
Valves no. 12
Bore x Stroke 89 x 76 mm
Added by: 2014-12-03 custom1
Generation I
Used on the vehicles
Year Model
1985 - 1989 Chevrolet Cavalier
1985 Chevrolet Citation
1987 - 1989 Chevrolet Celebrity
1987 - 1989 Chevrolet Beretta
1987 - 1989 Chevrolet Corsica
Also, try
S10,
Camaro
Blazer
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...
The only thing you have to watch out for when grabbing the ecm From the junk yard is the memcal because of the knock sensor stuff in it. An 8cyl stays with 8 cyl and 6 with 6. Its said you're not supposed to mix and match......not sure why though.
Obviously Ron is way ahead of me... :D
Having said that...
If anyone stumbles across a V8 memcal, I have a V6 memcal that I will happily trade, or I'll buy it from you, outright.
If desired, I'll install a socket in the memcal before I send it to you, so that you can swap chips easily. (Depending upon your programming setup, you may not care about this.)
The best place to find a V8 memcal is a 90, 91 or 92 TPI 305 or 350 Camaro or Firebird. Kind of uncommon, these days.
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Thanks guys. I remember looking a 4 car that day and getting parts off 2. With this list, I can narrow it down to the Celebrity . So, I will be ordering a knock sensor from rock auto today. Thanks again.
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What does code BABM list. I know I got it out of a Beretta and I believe it was a 3.1. That tag is on both the body and the cover plate.
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1992 LH0 3.1 auto. A1 code mask
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Thanks guys. I remember looking a 4 car that day and getting parts off 2. With this list, I can narrow it down to the Celebrity . So, I will be ordering a knock sensor from rock auto today. Thanks again.
I thought I remembered you mentioning a Celebrity, but I didn't want to mislead you, in case I remembered incorrectly.
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Got the knock sensor in today as well as the chip back from Ron. Waiting on a gasket for the EGR base to crossover pipe. Saturday and sunday are going to be busy days. 2 wires to run and hook up, the egr to install along with the knock sensor. Add coolant install battery and test drive!
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The first startup after the chip is installed , you should expect:
Turn ignition to on position,
Check engine light should come on, flash off once, then steady on,
With ac selector off, radiator fan should NOT come on.
If the fan comes ON and the cel blinks rapidly or is out, then i screwed something up and the car is in limp mode.
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...limp mode.
I hate it when that happens.
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Ok, got the car started today. Sounds like its running on 3 or 4 cylinders and will not stay running. The check engine light is steady on. I will be checking fuses and wire connections. Any help would be greatly appreciated .
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Check bd6 and bd7 (probably black/white) and make sure they both ground out. Sounds like an entire bank of injectors aren't working.
Check Bc11 and bc12 too. That's where the injector wires come into the ecm, then go out through bd6 and 7.
Check the injector harness connector up by the map sensor, coolant neck area. The pins inside get loosy goosy if disturbed.
Check injector power supply (key on engine off) to the pink wires at the injectors to confirm power.
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IT IS ALIVE! Simple dumb mistake of not counting the pins correctly. I will let everyone know how it runs later. Thanks everyone for all the help is putting this together.
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You'll love your 7730!
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How did your MPG turn out?
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My last tank was 24.1 mpg. Usually hit around 23 mpg before the upgrade.
Can't say the 24.1 was easy driving. Traffic permitting, I've been taking first to 4500 RPM and 2nd to 5000-ish RPM. Then quickly getting to the highest, usable gear.
Driving has just been more fun. 8)
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My mileage has held steady at 21 in the city. The problem is similar to Pgackerman's that the increased responsiveness leads to a much heavier foot and my face hurts from smiling. :)
The real test will be after my tune is complete and I enable "lean cruise", or "highway mode" and see what fuel savings are had then. I've only got 4 short gears, so I'm not expecting much.
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Car is running great. The idle is smoothed out and throttle response is better all around. I will be driving it to the cruise in tomorrow. I will let you know there what it is like to drive distance and what milage it gives back.
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Have you scanned it yet?
If you'd like, I'll bring my scan tool, and we can look at the fueling/BLM.
Provided I can figure out what to scan it as.
(Do you know the "8th digit" engine code of the mask that was used? Ron S. may know.)
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I have no idea.
It'll be an $88 code mask.
Probably vin 9 for f body
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I'll bring the burner and scanner too, between Raydar and me, we'll get you straightened out.
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See ya'll today.
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Just filled up. 29.6 mpg
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With a heavy foot? That's GREAT!
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29.84 mpg, but I filled up yesterday.
BTW, we had NO highway driving on the way to Sonic. 55 MPH roads and small towns in South Carolina and Georgia.
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29.84 mpg, but I filled up yesterday.
When can we update highway-mode?
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I just need to datalog some highway driving to make sure the fueling is not too far off in that range, then if ok, activate highway mode
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With a heavy foot? That's GREAT!
I wear the highest-fashion lead shoes!
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;D
Must be Florsheims' from NHRA!
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Filled up today. Pushed in 3.7 gallons. Pump first stopped around 3.5 gallons, but thought that wasn't enough. So 108.4 miles divided by 3.7 gives 29.30 MPG. That's after filling up on the way back somewhere between Washington and Elberton, two days of sitting, and a work day commute.
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When does your book about doing the change-over come out?
Write it in the 'see Spot run' form so I can understand it.
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Paul... Good show!
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Back to a normal week of driving. 24.4 mpg.
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That's very good; considering your 'normal' driving ;-)
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So, the rebuilt 2.8 is now in the car. All is hooked up. It runs, at about 3000 rpm. I have checked for vaccume leaks, grounds, sensors, switches. When I placed this into service, I replaced all intake gaskets and orings. Used my throttle body as I knew it to be good. I am running 7730 ecm with a knock sensor. I have driven the car about 70 miles and gas milage is about 10 miles per gallon.
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Check the injector o rings too.
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Since my 24.4 MPG, I've had:
23.5
23.6
24.8
22.1
25.8
21.1
27.7
20.9
26.1
Your mileage may vary.
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Try removing the rubber intake duct from the throttle body. Place your thumb over the 3/8" hole that is in front of the throttle blade. The engine should stall, or nearly stall. If it doesn't slow down, you have a vacuum leak.
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Try removing the rubber intake duct from the throttle body. Place your thumb over the 3/8" hole that is in front of the throttle blade. The engine should stall, or nearly stall. If it doesn't slow down, you have a vacuum leak.
On Pennocks, he posted that it slowed it down, but didn't die. He also mentioned that he replaced the injector orings.
I'm betting on orings or cracked egr tube.
Someone should place a long shot bet on the lim to head gaskets. Maybe one of them slipped.
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Turns out that I have a warped upper intake manifold. Sad as its the one I painted and had all pretty looking. Car now runs and idles .
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You could take the pretty one down to the shop and have them belt sand the faces true again.
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I will be leveling here in my garage workshop. Now to look into a new muffler.
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Hey everyone, I've never posted on this forum before, but I've owned Fiero's on and off since '89. I'm neck deep in a 3.4/7730 swap and saw this thread. I was wondering if you could tell me or point me in a direction to find out what code the chip from my 7730 has on it. I picked it up online and it was supposedly from a 91 Corsica. It says Delco, AUXX, 3823 on the silver tag. TIA.
Vin
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Tunercat seems to think it's "$A1".
$A1 1227730 91 - 93 J, L, W Cars LH0 3.1L V6 27C256 (The L Body was the Corsica and Beretta.)
www.tunercat.com
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It would probably start and run if you hook up the coil packs and drop the dizzy just like it is. The problem is vats will be active and it will prevent the setup from running. You'll have to burn a different chip.
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Thanks guys, hopefully I can get all of this wiring sorted. I'm planning to have Ryan from Sinister program a chip for me. Still a bit unclear on a few things, I've seen people say you're eliminating the fan switch, but from Ryan's pinout chart and other diagrams I've seen it looks like you re-wire the switch. Can anyone provide clarification there?
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Normally, on a 7730 install, I think the ECM controls the fan, instead of the switch. The wiring just gets moved from the switch, to one of the ECM outputs.
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You can also leave the switch as is. Either way will work.
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I just logged 200 miles on my 85 (little) tank. That's 30.30mpg highway uphill from Augusta to Memphis. That's with highway fueling mode activated @ 15.50 afr. I might bump the afr up a bit more until the heads start showing a couple more degrees and she how she does. I bet I could get 16 afr out of it. That would put me in the 33-34 mpg range maybe.
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MPG Based on gallons at the pump or tank size?
If you increase the AFR, don't you have to worry about running too lean? Are you still running the stock 2.8? With a 5-speed?
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MPG Based on gallons at the pump or tank size?
If you increase the AFR, don't you have to worry about running too lean?
That's the whole idea. If the engine is just cruising, and not heavily loaded, it can run fairly lean without damaging anything. Significantly leaner than "ideal".
GM had this routine installed in several PCMs. As the story goes, they didn't have it enabled because it could potentially cause high NOx emissions.
Of course, I read that on the internet, so it has to be true. I hope Ron will correct me if I'm speaking an untruth.
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Mpg based off pump gallons. 200miles/6.6gallons=30.30mpg.
Radar hit the nail on the head. Lean under minimum loads is acceptable. You can program the amount of advance vs load (map) to lessen the chance of melting your heads. You'll have have to watch knock counts and coolant temp.
Gm left the highway cruise and highway fuel options, tables, and scalers in most of their codes....usually with the settings already dialed in.
I'm running the 3.4 with f23, but the f23 with gears in between the 4speed and the 5 speed. At 75, I'm turning 2750 rpm. I think the 5speed turns a little lower and the 4speed turns higher rpm at speed.
Oh, and half of that was with my lights up....that probably worth mentioning.
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What is the advantage of the F23 compared to a 5-speed?
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The gears are cut different. Synchronization is faster, more positive. That's about it. Rowing through the gears feels more modern, effortless. Because of the hydraulic throw out bearing setup, the point of engagement never changes and you can feel the clutch friction much more , making for perfect, confident takeoff every time. Plus, there's a lot more donors laying about in junkyard.....just waiting.....
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What is the advantage of the F23 compared to a 5-speed?
I thought the F23 is a 5-speed... ? Is there another 5 speed?
I have a normal V6 & automatic transmission in my car now, but at some future date, I'm thinking about dropping in a 3800SC and 5-speed manual, (or selling the car and buying a replica that already has that), so I'm trying to learn my options.
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I thought the F23 is a 5-speed... ? Is there another 5 speed?
The F23 is a 5 speed.
There was another 5 speed that was discussed for a minute or two. The F35.
From what I remember, it's not as suitable for our purposes as the F23. (Different gearing? Weaker construction? Maybe?)
I don't remember what any of its applications are (or were.)
I remember seeing a web page that compared the Getrag, F23, F35, and the F40. May have been one of "Fast Fieros" pages, before he fell off the earth with a bunch of peoples' money. If I find it, I'll post a link.
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A bit off-topic, but I believe the F40 is a 6-speed. Fieruguru, lou_dias, and some others have done these swaps. It'd be awesome with an LS4 in a Ford GT body.
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I got a little greedy and upped the advance another couple degrees and mileage went down slightly, so, even under no load, there is a "too much". No knocks where logged during this test. The sweet spot seems to be in the high 40's to low 50's degrees at light throttle.