Post by: Fierofool on August 09, 2016, 01:52:06 pm
There is a Premium Sound System overhead console and the subwoofer still in the car. The hubs are still there with a full set of Pacer 5-spoke wheels. Power mirrors with the switch is still there. Auxiliary gauges and 120 speedo. It's an automatic. I think the ECM was still there. The console was still in place.
Deck lid and part of the engine is gone, as are the quarter windows.
I grabbed the headlight module, which for some reason was still in the front compartment. A Fiero Store $600 item. Cost me $6.95. Like new horn button, charged out as a wheel center cap, $3.50. Maybe someone can get the hubs and disks and tell them they're Frisbees. $0.50 each.
If anyone goes, get the VIN number and mileage for 88datbaseguy.
Post by: scottb on September 27, 2016, 04:34:50 am
Post by: Drewbdo on September 28, 2016, 01:32:20 pm
There's an 88GT in the South Yard, Henrico Road off Moreland Avenue at I-285. Not a heck of a lot left. Passenger seat is still there and in pretty good condition. Headlight assemblies with motors, though at some time, the system has been butchered. The harness has been cut with something spliced into it. The headlights have rods bolted to the sides to hold them open.
At the beginning of this month, I purchased an 88 Fiero with a replica body kit. Someone removed the pop-up headlights, and replaced them with 4 rectangular stationary headlights, which were probably covered with a piece of plexiglass at some previous date.
This is my first Fiero, so I know very very little about them. Do you know if it would be possible to remove the existing rectangular lights and install the pop-ups mentioned on the Pull-a-Part Fiero? I prefer the look of the popups, even though I have been told they are more trouble. :) lol
Post by: Drewbdo on September 28, 2016, 01:39:19 pm
Just don't want to waste money buying something that possibly could not be repaired, much less retrofitted into my car. I don't know anyone else who has a Fiero, so I can't really compare the area under my front hood to the OEM Fiero.
Post by: TopNotch on September 28, 2016, 02:23:17 pm
ps. If you do go down there, could you peel off the door handle strips for me? See this post (http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2460.0) for more info.
Edit: Oops... I just read the 1st post in this thread. Fierofool has the motor controller (headlight module).
Post by: Drewbdo on September 28, 2016, 02:48:45 pm
To be safe (since it is unknown what you have in your car), you should get the head light assemblies, the headlight wiring harness, and the motor controller. The motor controller is behind the driver's side fender liner. If you have all that, you should be able to restore pop-up headlights.Thank you for the information about the other parts I'd need. When you say "driver's side fender liner", is that the flat panel inside the wheel wheels, which keeps mud/water spray from the tires inside the wheel well area? I just sprayed mine with Rustoleum Undercoating while the wheels were off at Goodyear getting new tires. :) lol Anyway, I just want to be sure I'm looking behind the correct panel.
ps. If you do go down there, could you peel off the door handle strips for me? See this post (http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2460.0) for more info.
Just realized I have to work Saturday morning 10-2PM. I may try to go Sunday instead. I live north of Kennesaw, so I probably would only have an hour max by the time I got off work and drove to the yard.
I'll look for the handle strips for you.
Would anyone be willing to take a couple of photos of their Fiero front compartments, showing the lights and the area around the lights? I don't know the cars well enough to know if the builder made any structural changes, etc, in that area. All external body panels were replaced, so they may have also changed some of the structural framing needed to support the headlight mechanisms.
Post by: Drewbdo on September 28, 2016, 02:50:59 pm
Edit: Oops... I just read the 1st post in this thread. Fierofool has the motor controller (headlight module).
Never mind about the "driver's side thinga-ma-panel" question. :)
Post by: scottb on September 28, 2016, 05:05:57 pm
My shop is at the Cherokee/forsyth county line on hwy 20. You can meet me there and I can look at your car and see if anything is really disturbing about it.
Pat, the door handle strips arent any good, dry rotted from sitting outside.
Post by: Fierofool on September 28, 2016, 05:07:53 pm
There's really nothing that's useable on the headlight system. Not worth the drive down there.
Post by: Fierofool on September 28, 2016, 05:17:35 pm
What body kit do you have? Send me some pictures and I'll post them for you, if you don't have a PC.
Post by: Drewbdo on September 29, 2016, 03:51:39 pm
I just looked at that car this past weekend, and I know that the headlight harness has already been butchered. It is not worth the trouble.
Most of the headlight system was gone and the harness had been butchred. The headlights had been raised up and rods bolted to the sides of them to hold them open permanently. I believe th lower ends had been welded in place. The harness wires from the motors had been cut and spliced into another device, and the stock module was laying in the front compartment. I surmise the other device was some kind of attempt to replace the actuator module.
There's really nothing that's useable on the headlight system. Not worth the drive down there.
Thank you both for saving me the drive time to the other side of ATL! :) Wow... welded and bolted in place... they seriously did not like popups! :D
My shop is at the Cherokee/forsyth county line on hwy 20. You can meet me there and I can look at your car and see if anything is really disturbing about it.The most disturbing thing about my car is the owner. :o lol
just converted mine over from the flushmounts to the popups. I think I had the same flushmounts as you. Couldn't see a darned thing at night.
What body kit do you have? Send me some pictures and I'll post them for you, if you don't have a PC.
I haven't driven the car at night yet. I know the headlights "work", but I don't know how bright they are in "real life", driving around. I just prefer the popups because I think they look better with the body kit.
Which brings me to ... My body kit isn't the "normal" Fiero body style, if there is a "normal Fiero body kit". My car has a 3.1 V6, stretched about 7".
It is a replica of a certain Red Head from an "Italian stallion" automaker. It even has a little "horsey" emblem... a couple of years ago, my daughter would have probably named it after one of the "My Little Pony" characters. ;)
Here is a shot of the front lights.
I'm doing a build thread (http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/20631-drews-pyt-pretty-yellow-testarossa.html) over on Mad Mechanics, a custom/replica car forum.
Anyway, under the fiberglass, it is a Fiero. It just doesn't "look like" a Fiero... I hope we can still all be friends. :D lol
Post by: Fierofool on September 29, 2016, 06:30:07 pm
My initial thoughts about the headlights are:
1. I don't think you will be able to convert to stock popups.
2. You will probably have difficulty seeing at night because;
A. The pan cuts off the downward beam so you can't see the roadway directly in front.
B. The fender and hood cuts off side scatter so seeing the lines is difficult.
Those are the reasons I converted back. A good set of driving lights can reduce those issues, though.
Post by: Drewbdo on September 29, 2016, 10:14:32 pm
That's a good looking Fiero. But it looks like you have a tire problem. Bring it to the October meeting and let us kick the tires to be sure they're safe.😃
My initial thoughts about the headlights are:
1. I don't think you will be able to convert to stock popups.
2. You will probably have difficulty seeing at night because;
A. The pan cuts off the downward beam so you can't see the roadway directly in front.
B. The fender and hood cuts off side scatter so seeing the lines is difficult.
Those are the reasons I converted back. A good set of driving lights can reduce those issues, though.
Thank you for the feedback.
Speaking of the October tire-kicking session ;) ...
That is my birthday, and it sounds like a fun thing to do. How long do the meetings usually last? I'm a mobile DJ, and have a school dance that night. I'd have to get back home to get the van (can't fit much DJ gear in the car), then head to my gig. I could probably stay an hour or two.
Post by: Fierofool on September 29, 2016, 10:24:33 pm
Always allow for traffic, when traveling either direction.
Post by: Raydar on September 30, 2016, 05:39:55 am
I've seen quite a few rebodies, but most don't go to the trouble of doing a stretch. That opens up a lot of possibilities (like yours) and really makes the proportions nice.
Post by: Drewbdo on September 30, 2016, 08:32:00 am
Some of arrive around 12:30-1:00 and go ahead and order our food. Meeting is supposed to start at 1:30, and might last a half hour to an hour. Tire kicking afterwards. Lie-telling follows tire-kicking.
Always allow for traffic, when traveling either direction.
OK. I put it on my calendar. I'll see if my wife wants to come with me. Her dad worked for GM for many years, so they used to go to a lot of car shows.
The first time I visit, I'll have to listen in to the pros, so I can learn the methodology for proper automotive "lie-telling". I've never had a car nice enough to tell lies about before. :D
That's a nice looking car!
I've seen quite a few rebodies, but most don't go to the trouble of doing a stretch. That opens up a lot of possibilities (like yours) and really makes the proportions nice.
Thank you, Raydar. This car was built in 1994 by Mike Vetter. In the 80's and 90's, Mike built a ton of replica cars. Now, he builds a ton of completely custom cars for customers with pockets much deeper than mine. My car was definitely the cheapest, shabbiest car at his shop! :) lol
He doesn't build Ferrari replicas anymore. Ferrari beat him with a stick several years ago. :o
Thankfully, this car had already been delivered to the owner. The same person owned it until I bought it. He brought it back to Mike as a partial down payment on a new custom car that Mike is building for him. Since Mike had originally built the car, and knew the owner took care of it, he agreed and handled the sale. Someone listed Mike's Craigslist ad on Mad Mechanics forum, where I saw it. I contacted Mike, I googled him to make sure he wasn't a scammer, and decided to take an eight hour drive to see the car.
I'm not into racing, but if I was, it has some real possibilities. Someone upgraded the engine to a 3.1, but due to the stretch, there's all kinds of space inside the engine bay. There's probably enough room for a Northstar or other large V8, maybe even a BMW V12. It has an auto tranny... an Italian look-alike deserves a 5-speed manual, IMO.
I didn't want a red car or a white car; was actually looking for a charcoal, navy blue, or black, as that would be a little bit less ... noticeable. "Pikachu Yellow" works too, I guess. ;D
The side fins and the rear hatch need finishing, the entire car needs a good detailing, the lights are wonky (no brake lights, or reverse lights... fuse?), Freon leaks, and the power windows aren't much faster than my grandmother... and she's been dead ten years. ???
It needs some TLC, but it's not embarrassing. The work should help keep me off the streets... instead, you can find me in junkyards, in the driveway, and in the garage. :)
Post by: Raydar on September 30, 2016, 09:22:37 am
Quote from: Drewbdo
I didn't want a red car or a white car; was actually looking for a charcoal, navy blue, or black, as that would be a little bit less ... noticeable. "Pikachu Yellow" works too, I guess. ;D
...
I also prefer "low key". My Fiero is painted "stealth gray", if that tells you anything.
My project is white, but I would have been happy with anything except black (too hard to keep clean) or bright (arrest me) red.
Post by: Drewbdo on September 30, 2016, 03:25:30 pm
I remember hearing the name Mike Vetter, but it's been a while. You have a piece of history, there.
Mike's "kit car" website (http://www.kitcarmike.com) shows some of his work, current and past. He took us on a tour of his shop when we drove down. WOW!! They are doing some amazing stuff in there. I promised him I would not reveal his treasures, but he and his team are artisans.
Like I say, my car was the cheapest, junkiest looking car at his place. It's like after you have been working in your profession for a decade or two, and your mom pulls your 7th grade project out of the "memory box" in her closet... "Oh look honey, remember this?" :) lol
I also prefer "low key". My Fiero is painted "stealth gray", if that tells you anything.
My project is white, but I would have been happy with anything except black (too hard to keep clean) or bright (arrest me) red.
Yeah, keeping it clean is a major downer for a black car. Since I don't yet have a garage I can park in, that would have probably gotten old very fast. The red would have been ok, aside from the fact that it is so... predictable, I guess. Sports car = red, Ferrari = red, meh... I have driven the same little white Ford Escort for 18 years, and my DJ van is also white, so I didn't really want white again.
Since I saw the white one on Miami Vice back when I was about 15, the Testarossa has been my "go to" dream car. The purchase was for me to look at and my eyeballs to enjoy the lines and curves of.
I know a guy who is a multi-millionaire. He had a factory/real Diablo, and it was a greyish color. So, it wasn't until you heard the car that you really looked. Otherwise, it just of blended into the background. That was initially the plan for my car color as well. Of course, with a used car, and a limited budget, you kind of take what you can find. I have thought about painting it, but there are other things I'd rather spend money on first... like the side fins, a 5-speed manual conversion, AC repair, etc.
Although, now that I have the car, I will admit, the YELLOOOOOOW color has grown on me. ;D lol
Anyway, I would like to attend the October GFC meeting. I have to work my day job that morning, but I get off at noon, and could drive down before my DJ gig that night.
I need to see if I can figure out the brake lights, and go to the courthouse and get tags this coming week though. The tires were shot, so I haven't been driving the car much. Just installed the new tires yesterday afternoon in my driveway... Baby has new shoes! :)
Post by: Drewbdo on October 02, 2016, 05:51:12 pm
Took my bride out for dinner last night. One mile from home, the engine dies... no sputter, just dead. Won't restart. Thankfully, we coasted to a stop in a church parking lot, and close to home. Kenny, the next-door neighbor, and the crazy guy who went on the eight-hour road trip to look at the car, is home. He tows us back up the driveway, backwards, into the church parking lot, with his little minivan, then gives us a ride home.
Kenny said, "I never thought I'd be towing a Ferrari with my minivan." 8)
I said, "I never thought I'd have a Ferrari for you to tow." :o
Kenny and I took my 3/4 ton Chevy 3500 van back. It will start if I spray starter fluid. The fuses are good, I think it is the fuel pump relay I hear click in the rear of the car, but no fuel pump sound. Mike stated that he replaced the fuel pump, as the car sat four years. So, either he got a bad fuel pump, or maybe a wire come loose, or something.
God is good. We were in a safe place, on a dry, cool evening, close to home. Kenny and I managed to get the two straps onto the frame without damaging the body, then I towed with the van, while Kenny steered PYT.
I need to get under it, but I can't drive it up on the wood planks like I did before, and the jack can't get under it to lift the front. I may try to lift the rear, but not sure if I can get the fuel tank out with just the rear up.
Took a while to find info on which fuse to check etc. So, I just ordered a Pontiac Fiero factory manual on CD-ROM, as I know nothing about the car, other than what I have found here, Mad Mechanics, Pennocks, etc.
Post by: Roger on October 02, 2016, 06:38:24 pm
Post by: TopNotch on October 02, 2016, 08:33:02 pm
Ignition module.
If the tach doesn't move while you're cranking it, then yes, it's most likely the ignition module. A common Fiero problem. I had one die on me right in the middle of the Dubln GA St. Patrick's day parade (the club participated). I had one in my trunk, and managed to change it before the entire parade passed me by. I had to finish the parade separate from the other Fieros, though.
ps. They're kind of hard to change when the engine is hot. Easy when it's cold.
Post by: Fierofool on October 03, 2016, 12:00:47 am
You can check fuel pump by trying to start the engine. Then with the ignition off, remove the cap on the fuel rail schrader valve. Inset a small screwdriver and depress the valve stem. You should get a spurt of fuel high enough to almost reach the surface of the decklid. If there's no spurt, the fuel pump isn't working. Should you need to eventually replace the fuel pump again, get a Delphi or AC Delco pump and separately purchase a piece of "Ethanol Submersible" fuel line to connect the pump to the sending unit.
Even if you can't drive the car, come on out to the meeting.
Post by: Drewbdo on October 03, 2016, 01:05:27 pm
Ignition module.
If the tach doesn't move while you're cranking it, then yes, it's most likely the ignition module.
It's up on jack stands now, but I may try... carefully and gingerly :o :o :o ... to open the door, and turn over the engine. I don't remember either way if the tach moved when I was trying to crank.
A common Fiero problem. I had one die on me right in the middle of the Dubln GA St. Patrick's day parade (the club participated). I had one in my trunk, and managed to change it before the entire parade passed me by.
You're either really fast, or really good... even though Dublin, GA is a bustling metropolis, I can't imagine that the parade was all THAT long. ;) lol
Post by: Fierofool on October 03, 2016, 01:33:28 pm
Post by: Drewbdo on October 03, 2016, 02:26:09 pm
Since you have spark, I would initially rule out the ignition control module, yet it may still be related to it. Pull the 4-wire harness connector from the module and check the contacts inside it. They can be pushed outward when installing the harness to the module and with time can lose contact. If all 4 pins inside the harness end aren't all the way nearly flush with the end of the rubber plug, then push all the wires in until they are. I believe the fuel pump signal is the 2nd pin from the right, as the harness is plugged in.I ordered the Pontiac factory manual yesterday, but it won't be here for a few days.
Where is the "4-wire harness connector" for the "ignition control module"? I would have guessed it is connected to the ignition module, inside the steering column or under the dash... near the ignition? However, Google has photos of something near the distributor on top of the engine. ?
Maybe I'm searching Google for the wrong thing. ???
You can check fuel pump by trying to start the engine. Then with the ignition off, remove the cap on the fuel rail schrader valve. Inset a small screwdriver and depress the valve stem. You should get a spurt of fuel high enough to almost reach the surface of the decklid. If there's no spurt, the fuel pump isn't working. Should you need to eventually replace the fuel pump again, get a Delphi or AC Delco pump and separately purchase a piece of "Ethanol Submersible" fuel line to connect the pump to the sending unit.
Even if you can't drive the car, come on out to the meeting.
I tried to start the engine many times Saturday night, but I'll try again tonight, in case the pressure has bled off since then. I have a face shield; I've read on PFF that depressing the valve stem can spray gas in your eyes. :o
Thank you for the invite. I probably will come out, hopefully driving PYT. :)
Post by: Drewbdo on October 03, 2016, 02:27:27 pm
Over a mile long. Maybe 2. Plan to be there in March.
Sounds like fun! :)
Post by: f85gtron on October 03, 2016, 03:27:31 pm
Post by: Drewbdo on October 03, 2016, 04:52:42 pm
Found the shredder valve on the engine from images on Google. Pressing it did not release any fuel, but I did hear a woosh of air,like when pressing on a tire valve stem. So, I'm guessing at one time, there was gas. :)
Guess I'll put the iPad away, and crawl under the car to get started on the fuel pump removal. :/
If you hear a loud explosion... I may have messed something up. :o. Lol
Post by: TopNotch on October 03, 2016, 05:12:24 pm
Pressing it did not release any fuel, but I did hear a woosh of air,like when pressing on a tire valve stem.
Any gas in the tank?
Post by: Raydar on October 03, 2016, 05:44:02 pm
...
Any gas in the tank?
A valid question. My car pretty much sucks wind at 1/4 tank indicated.
Post by: Drewbdo on October 04, 2016, 07:47:14 am
Any gas in the tank?
A valid question. My car pretty much sucks wind at 1/4 tank indicated.
I filled it on Thursday. Last night, I siphoned about 6-7 gallons out. I wasn't sure if I should try to siphon it completely out, or if that could cause a problem. Thankfully, I had jacked the car high enough that I was able to slide 5 gallon fuel cans under. I filled one can, then moved the hose over and filled the other about 1/4-1/3. When I dropped the tank, there was still maybe an inch of fuel in the bottom of the tank.
The fuel tank is now on the ground under the car. The outside of the tank looks clean, and the pump looks new. There is corrosion on the metal tubes (inside, near the top of the tank), a some rusty-looking trash inside the pump screen, and a lot of "flakes" sloshing around on the inside bottom of the tank. There is a big plastic liner thingie in the back of the tank, and I could see a couple of cracks in the plastic.
Any recommendations on how to clean the tank out? I don't want to to dump the remaining gas on the ground. Tossing in a match would probably be exciting, but could damage the tank. My bride would probably not be very happy if I used her vacuum to suck the rest of the gas and trash out of the tank. That's all the cleaning ideas I have... ;D
AutoZone has a ACDelco?? pump for about $40, or I can get the entire assembly... hoses, metal tubes, o-rings, pump, etc for about $270. I'd rather spend $40, but I also don't want to re-do this job for a long time. Since I have corrosion on the metal tubes already, and I don't have a nice garage/shop for doing repairs, I was thinking about replacing the entire thing.
Any suggestions? You guys have a lot more experience with these little cars than I do. :)
Post by: Fierofool on October 04, 2016, 08:48:51 am
We repeatedly sprayed the inside with a water hose and turned the tank on end and upside down until we felt it was clean enough. Final rinse was with a little fuel. If you can find some Dry Gas, add some when you reinstall the tank.
$40 sounds cheap. We paid $60-70 IIRC, from Rock auto or Summit, for the Delphi unit. It came with strainer, tank O-ring, a length of in-tank hose and clamps for the hose. We chose to keep the pulsator rather than use the hose. It was plug and play. No wire cutting or splicing.
Use some PB Blaster to spray the sender rheostat and get the varnish off it. I think it should ohm at 0 and 90, at E and F. I think there's something on here about what to use to rub the fine sender wires with.
Post by: f85gtron on October 04, 2016, 10:16:03 am
The pump at the store doesn't sound like the correct one. You gotta watch those guys. Their parts listings are incorrect at times.
Post by: TopNotch on October 04, 2016, 01:20:53 pm
Edit: I checked on two online stores -- they agree on the part number, and say that the AC Delco pump does not come with a strainer, so you'll need to get one separately.
Post by: Fierofool on October 04, 2016, 02:59:18 pm
Correction. This is the fuel pump we installed. I was working on the car today and found the box in the trunk.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dfp-fe0113
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 09, 2017, 01:18:23 pm
That's a good looking Fiero. But it looks like you have a tire problem. Bring it to the October meeting and let us kick the tires to be sure they're safe.😃
My initial thoughts about the headlights are:
1. I don't think you will be able to convert to stock popups.
2. You will probably have difficulty seeing at night because;
A. The pan cuts off the downward beam so you can't see the roadway directly in front.
B. The fender and hood cuts off side scatter so seeing the lines is difficult.
Those are the reasons I converted back. A good set of driving lights can reduce those issues, though.
Those lights probably aren't different from the 80's Camaros