Post by: Fierofool on October 29, 2015, 02:03:58 pm
The car was built by one of the Georgia Fiero Club's former members, Dave Belville. Dave was a little out front on many of the things he did with Fieros. This may have been one of the earliest conversions of a Formula.
In addition to the conversion, the plexi quarter windows have been replaced with fiberglass panels with scoops which bring air in and across the engine vents, helping to cool the engine. A deck lid scoop has also been installed which further helps to extract air from the engine bay.
The information we have is that the car is supposed to have a 2.8 that is bored and stroked to achieve a 3.4 liter displacement. It also purportedly has a higher lift cam, high ratio rocker arms and a Borla exhaust system. There is a high volume side air intake that clearly would help to put more air into the engine when the car is moving at road speeds. Unsightly, but effective.
It is a 5-speed, has AC, power windows have been added, aftermarket stereo with remote control, and factory subwoofer. It doesn't have cruise, but there's some indication that it may have at one time, judging by the wiring harnesses that are present, even though the turn signal and delay wiper stalk doesn't have the function.
It just received a new battery this morning, and it fired up on the first try. There is a skip in the engine, but it may be from sitting for more than 4 years. The tilt column is loose and needs to be removed and tightened. Interior is in pretty decent condition. We removed the tires from the Warrior Project GT and installed them on this car.
Present plans for this car is that it will be sold. Club members have first option. Outsiders get second option at a higher price. As things get repaired/replaced, the price goes up for all.
Some pictures from the time we picked up through sometime last year. Nothing is current as it sits now.
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Post by: Fierofool on November 23, 2015, 05:19:21 pm
I also checked out the aftermarket radio/cd player with input ports and removable face, and I can say that the radio and speakers has a great sound. The subwoofer also works and adds a pretty good kick to Rod Stewart's "Stay With Me". The whole car would Stay With Me if Melanie would let it. I couldn't test the remote for the radio. I think the battery is dead in it.
I got into the engine bay and was checking out things to find out where the skip was coming from. Pulling wires and checking continuity to see if any were broken and I found # 5 wasn't fully seated on the plug. That's where the skip was originating. Now it runs very smoothly. The idle is at about 2K but the car hasn't been out driven on the street due to a steering column that's about to fall out of it. With the high idle, I can't tell if it has a performance cam, or not, but the engine is very quiet and has good oil pressure.
Post by: Raydar on November 23, 2015, 06:19:21 pm
I have an automatic column in my manual car. Just have to remember not to turn it to "lock" if I have to shut it down in a hurry.
Post by: Fierofool on November 23, 2015, 06:32:31 pm
Anyone want to try repairing this one?
Post by: Raydar on November 23, 2015, 07:21:27 pm
I kept my eyes open with the Formula in mind while we were loading things.
I should have known that.
Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or the experience, to fix those.
Post by: ron768 on December 06, 2015, 10:43:36 pm
Post by: Fierofool on December 29, 2015, 03:55:58 pm
I know the quarter window side scoops are functional, but they badlyly need to be replaced to eliminate a serious blind spot. With these issues resolved, I think this will be a very fun car to drive.
Post by: Raydar on December 29, 2015, 08:40:28 pm
Post by: Fierofool on December 29, 2015, 10:10:22 pm
Right now, the only thing I know that's wrong with it is the clutch hydraulics and the loose steering column. It's been converted to R134a but I haven't checked to see if the system works. I believe when we first got it, it still had a charge in the system.
Post by: Fierofool on December 31, 2015, 09:24:05 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 31, 2017, 07:46:40 pm
Here it says the miss is fixed, but elsewhere I read that there may be a dirty/sticking injector.
For the steering column, is it bad, or just needs to be disassembled and have the 4 bolts tightened?
I'm curious what other details you found out.
Post by: Fierofool on January 31, 2017, 08:36:35 pm
The column needs to be disassembled and the usual bolts or screws Loctited and tightened.
Slave needs bled or replaced.
Headlights don't operate or illuminate. Instrument lights don't illuminate.
Remote for stereo needs a wafer battery.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 31, 2017, 08:39:15 pm
Post by: Fierofool on January 31, 2017, 08:49:24 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 31, 2017, 08:52:41 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 01, 2017, 07:10:09 pm
The engine compartment looks fairly dirty, but I'm guessing these are early pics. The routing of the vacuum hose to the EGR valve is interesting. The hoses to/by the PCV look differently from what I remember.
Post by: Fierofool on February 01, 2017, 09:17:02 pm
Forgot to say that the car's rust free. Maybe the battery tray has some rust, but the rest of the body is solid and clean. Those pictures of the engine were taken when we first got the car after having been sitting in his back yard for 3 or 4 years.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 01, 2017, 09:40:28 pm
That's a good idea with removing moisture.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 19, 2017, 07:19:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 19, 2017, 07:58:45 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 25, 2017, 04:54:41 pm
I identified the dead cylinder as #3. Pulled, cleaned and gapped the plug and that didn't help. Replaced the plug wire and that didn't help. Replaced the distributor cap and that didn't help. I'm guessing that the intake will need to come off and have the injectors cleaned or possibly a mouse-food wire soldered back together. I really doubt it's a wire because it ran good, idling fine and suddenly began to miss.
I also bled the clutch and had instant pedal, but as I drove it up and down the street, it began to give me some difficulty in changing gear when I stopped to turn around. It could be heat getting to the fluid line, or a bad hydraulic component.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2017, 05:33:36 pm
How are the dew wipes and drip rails? The drip rail above the driver's door looks brownish in the pics.
Post by: Fierofool on April 27, 2017, 06:16:59 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2017, 06:19:58 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2017, 06:23:52 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 27, 2017, 06:24:30 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 27, 2017, 06:25:39 pm
Me, too. Most of us feel it needs to be removed.
Count me in that most group.
Post by: GTXVette on May 08, 2017, 08:36:17 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 08, 2017, 10:13:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 08, 2017, 10:28:07 pm
Post by: GTXVette on May 08, 2017, 10:35:25 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 08, 2017, 10:45:00 pm
Post by: GTXVette on May 09, 2017, 07:38:15 am
Post by: Fierofool on May 19, 2017, 06:02:00 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 19, 2017, 06:07:08 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 19, 2017, 07:05:34 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 19, 2017, 07:25:41 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 25, 2017, 01:10:15 pm
Mike determined that the injectors are from the early 90's era 3800 series engines which were in Camaros, Cutlasses, Rivieras, and others. The car has an adjustable pressure regulator, so we don't know what pressure and flow we have.
Post by: Sarge on May 25, 2017, 02:17:46 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 25, 2017, 02:55:58 pm
Post by: scottb on May 25, 2017, 05:41:09 pm
Thanks, Scott
Post by: Fierofool on May 25, 2017, 06:10:03 pm
I just picked up some throttlebody cleaner and some carb and choke cleaner and see what I can do with the rail.
I vote to go ahead and purchase replacement injectors and to authorize Pat to order them. There are only 10 left at the $95 price, so we need to act quickly.
Post by: Roger on May 25, 2017, 08:45:45 pm
I just found a set of remanufactured, flow matched injectors at US Carburetors for $95 with free shipping and 1 yr. warranty with receipt.I vote for these.
Post by: Raydar on May 26, 2017, 11:29:58 am
Might be a good idea to read the part number off of the original injectors.
Post by: Fierofool on May 26, 2017, 01:26:49 pm
Post by: Raydar on May 26, 2017, 02:33:25 pm
Post by: Sarge on May 26, 2017, 06:07:39 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 26, 2017, 06:14:38 pm
Post by: TopNotch on May 26, 2017, 11:04:33 pm
I vote to go ahead and purchase replacement injectors and to authorize Pat to order them. There are only 10 left at the $95 price, so we need to act quickly.Do you have the part number?
Post by: Sarge on May 27, 2017, 08:27:09 pm
Charlie sent you an email with a hyperlink. Can you please update us once the order has been placed.
Post by: TopNotch on May 27, 2017, 10:36:35 pm
Post by: Raydar on May 28, 2017, 10:55:20 am
Is the car still at Mike's shop? Maybe I can drop them off, one day after work.
Post by: Fierofool on May 28, 2017, 01:25:27 pm
The car is still at Northlake Automotive. Mike and his tech have the upper intake off. Mike and I have been discussing going back with a 3.4 fuel rail and eliminating the cold start injector. If you all want to keep the cold start injector, I have one in my shed that's in much better condition than the one that came out of the Formula. I also have a 2.8 fuel rail to replace the crudded rail. I may be able to get down to help him on Saturday if he wants to work on it.
Let us know your pleasure.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 28, 2017, 05:25:40 pm
I don't know why the whole sentence is underlined above. The raw text shows only the words probably and hope are underlined. I was working from a phone, so that might be why.
The underline tag after ”probably” is an open tag, rather than a close tag. Should be ”/u”, rather than ”u”.
Post by: Fierofool on May 28, 2017, 06:13:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 28, 2017, 06:17:59 pm
When we say Dave probably had it tweaked we're really saying we hope he did. The only way to know is to go back the same way. Mike Barr never mentioned any problems.
Post by: Fierofool on May 28, 2017, 06:34:29 pm
In any case, it will need the O-ring seal kit for the cold start injector if we don't eliminate it, and it might be a good idea to replace the fuel block to rail seal if we transfer to the 3.4 rail. Only available at The Fiero Store for $38. The O-ring kit is about $9.
Post by: Sarge on May 29, 2017, 02:13:36 pm
Dave
Post by: scottb on May 30, 2017, 01:29:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on May 30, 2017, 02:21:49 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 01, 2017, 12:29:53 pm
I think our best bet at the moment is to just stay with the 2.8 fuel rail that I have, transfer the adjustable regulator to it, and plug off the cold start injector. We will still need to order the fuel block to rail seal from The Fiero Store, though, since mine was damaged when I was investigating transferring it to the 3.4 rail.
Post by: Raydar on June 01, 2017, 12:37:19 pm
Unless you just want to proceed with what you've got.
Post by: Fierofool on June 01, 2017, 12:51:23 pm
Post by: MikeMac on June 01, 2017, 12:54:31 pm
Where do we stand on the clutch slave? Were we going to get it running good first and then address the clutch issue?
Post by: Fierofool on June 01, 2017, 01:01:34 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 01, 2017, 03:44:04 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 03, 2017, 09:22:19 pm
https://www.fierostore.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=60853&d=240&p=2
Post by: GrannyLinda on June 04, 2017, 06:43:45 pm
Post by: Roger on June 04, 2017, 09:28:40 pm
Post by: Sarge on June 06, 2017, 09:43:54 pm
Dave
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 20, 2017, 06:36:35 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 20, 2017, 07:19:10 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on June 20, 2017, 07:35:32 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 23, 2017, 09:00:50 am
Side note: Northlake Automotive is beginning to look a little like The Fiero Factory, Jr. with the 88 Formula Fastback, the 88 Coupe 3800SC and the 86 SE.
Post by: MikeMac on June 27, 2017, 10:44:31 pm
It does have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that may be out of whack even though I just switched it off the old fuel rail. Maybe a tune session with some club guys is in order? It's definitely running better but still isn't right.
Post by: MikeMac on June 28, 2017, 05:27:53 pm
I ran the engine for about 30 minutes today and it suddenly died just as if you had turned the ignition switch. It would crank over but not start until it cooled off. Maybe we can look at it after the July 8th club meeting.
Post by: Raydar on June 28, 2017, 08:29:32 pm
I got the car running today and the miss is gone but it is idling high.
...
If something changed drastically, it may have changed the idle.
It needs to be driven at 30+ MPH to reset the IAC.
Post by: MikeMac on June 28, 2017, 09:41:51 pm
Post by: Fierofool on June 28, 2017, 11:02:08 pm
Dieing after it builds up heat might be that the ICM is breaking down. They can rejuvenate after they cool down. You can still have spark but no fuel pump. The pump will cycle when the key is turned on because that's a function of the ECM, but there won't be enough fuel to make it run.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 06, 2017, 05:07:44 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 06, 2017, 05:24:04 pm
I had put 5 more gallons of fuel in it when I delivered it to Mike's shop. That quited the pump.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on July 06, 2017, 05:45:12 pm
Post by: Fierofool on July 06, 2017, 07:08:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2017, 12:25:10 am
Post by: Fierofool on August 04, 2017, 07:27:04 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 04, 2017, 07:35:43 am
I haven't seen MikeMac post for a bit. Probably busy working.
For the fastback, I hope the timing hasn't slipped. Have to move up the wiring to check for spark.
Post by: Fierofool on August 04, 2017, 07:44:29 am
Mike has to replace the transmission on the Aerodonamic car. Replacing a locked Isuzu with a Getrag.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 20, 2017, 06:22:23 pm
Will work resume on the fastback?
Post by: Fierofool on September 20, 2017, 08:37:38 pm
The fastback had to take a back seat to everything, but we're going to be starting some tech days now that RFTH is out of the way.
How about it, Pat and Ron, instead of having a meeting day and a separate tech day, what do you think of meeting at 10AM on our regular meeting day, and if Mike's available to let us into his shop for tech sessions, we can get the fastback and maybe his car up and going real soon.
Post by: GrannyLinda on September 20, 2017, 10:10:45 pm
You Might Want To Check With Maria If It Is OK With Her Too.
Post by: MikeMac on September 21, 2017, 03:02:48 pm
MikeMac had been installing new tire and alignment machinery and he and his mechanic were taking some courses offered by O'Rielly Auto Parts. Last I spoke with him, he hadn't had time to work on the AeroDonamic car. That was the weekend before RFTH.
The fastback had to take a back seat to everything, but we're going to be starting some tech days now that RFTH is out of the way.
How about it, Pat and Ron, instead of having a meeting day and a separate tech day, what do you think of meeting at 10AM on our regular meeting day, and if Mike's available to let us into his shop for tech sessions, we can get the fastback and maybe his car up and going real soon.
Yeah. I've been busy at the shop even though the shop hasn't been busy. Go figure.
Obviously the AeroDon car didn't make the run for the hills. My 90 year old Father in Law is drawing his last breaths and since my wife and I are his caretakers that's eaten up a lot of time too.
I did go out in the shop today and move the getrag transmission for the AeroDon car about 2 feet from where it was sitting but I don't think that counts as working on it!
Post by: Fierofool on September 21, 2017, 04:05:33 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 26, 2017, 08:15:07 pm
Had to get Mike to come get me. Left the car at a fruit stand for a couple of hours to cool off. We took the jumper box back and hooked it up. Started right up and I took off, only to make it about a half mile and it quit so I rolled into a church lot and we left it again. It would fire up and die.
Got fuel and still had the same problem. Fire up and die. We checked the spark and had spark, so now, it appears we have a fuel problem. I had to drive all the way back home to get the tow dolly, then back to Northlake, load it and tow it to Mike's shop.
Post by: Raydar on September 26, 2017, 09:29:56 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 26, 2017, 10:52:21 pm
Post by: TopNotch on September 26, 2017, 10:56:26 pm
The relay clicks so we know it's good.A relay can click and not be good. The contacts that close when it clicks can be bad.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2017, 12:59:18 am
How do you know that the fuel stops?
Things to check? Well, starts and dies could be a clogged exhaust. No fuel shouldn't cause the alternator light to come on. I'd check the alternator.
I'd check the ICM, if this still has it. You can check fuel pressure, and the injectors.
Hmmm. Temp rising. Still thinking exhaust blockage. I know it's been replaced, but other than running lean, the temp shouldn't suddenly rise, unless the coolant isn't flowing. If the coolant stops, that's the pump/belt, or a leak in the system. You could check the timing, but I suspect it'll run. That would cause starting issues and temp issues.
By my understanding, for this to occur and the relay be an issue, the oil pressure sender is also a problem, but you didn't report low oil pressure.
Was this the car that has the thingy to collect some fluid or other?
Post by: Raydar on September 27, 2017, 07:55:42 am
When the engine is running, it supplies pulses to the ECM. If the pulses stop, it will cut off the fuel. I forget if it cuts off the relay or the injectors. Injectors, I think.
This is a separate circuit from the "start" circuit. (Remember the bad ICM that wouldn't let the engine start with the starter, but would push start just fine? Same thing only different.) Check the wiring/connectors, too.
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2017, 08:02:50 am
The exhaust is clear. On the way away from the shop, the car had lots of power. When I noticed the alternator light on, I turned around and headed back. Had to stop due to rapidly rising temps.
The ICM has been replaced. The start and die situation is that it only runs for about a second and dies. Or at least it did. At the moment, it won't even fire off but it does have spark. That verifies that the coil, ICM, and pickup coil are all working properly.
The oil pressure gauge is extremely inaccurate on this car, but the oil pressure sensor is only a backup system in case the relay fails. The injectors are new, so all of them couldn't have failed. The fuel tank was removed, thoroughly flushed and a new fuel pump was installed. The car has been driven and run quite a bit since canister is on this car, but it has been emptied of all condensate.
I don't think it's the timing. On the second attempt to get it back to the shop, after it cooled, it started just fine. I took off, made it about a half mile or less and it just starved out of fuel. No backfires like it would if it were out of time.
Fuses will be the next thing we check. It was running down toward closing time and we didn't delve back into the problem.
The clips on the back of the ICM are loose in the plastic end, but we got them installed on the two ICM terminals very tightly. The external harness to the ICM are in good condition and attach solidly. Previously when we were having a similar no-start situation, the ICM was changed out and produced no change. That was what I went down to work on, yesterday. We checked the pickup coil and made sure the terminals were all connected solidly. Put it back together and it started right up.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2017, 08:16:51 am
My injectors were new, and failed. But I don't believe that's the problem here.
Never had one backfire on me when out of time. Maybe the outer ring of the harmonic balancer is off, though.
Have you pulled a plug?
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2017, 08:22:49 am
Post by: Raydar on September 27, 2017, 11:36:54 am
The injectors see a continuous 12V (two fuses), and the ECM switches ground to fire them.
If one of the ECM grounds is bad, it might cause it. Or the ECM could be bad. Or it may not be seeing the ignition reference pulses for some reason, as I said before.
Or... You might drop the fuse box down, and make sure everything is securely plugged in to the back side. (I believe that the circuits plug in. May not be hard connections. I've seen GM fuse boxes "lose" half of their circuits.)
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2017, 12:20:46 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 30, 2017, 09:15:37 am
Aside from the Formula Fastback, we need to give Mike a hand on getting the AeroDonamic car back on the road. Mike has been very generous to allow us into his shop.
Post by: scottb on September 30, 2017, 10:17:58 am
Post by: Fierofool on September 30, 2017, 10:58:59 am
Post by: MikeMac on September 30, 2017, 12:52:05 pm
I had a regulator on the shelf that came from a running engine. I gave it to Mike and he installed it when he replaced the injectors, but it still could have gone bad. I'm hoping the new fuel pump Roger and I installed hasn't failed already. Jumpering the ALDL pump circuit will tell us.
I used my Power Probe and applied 12 volts to terminal G on the ALDL. I cranked the car over and it did not start. I did get a wiff of gas smell though. I didn't hear the fuel pump run but the traffic is loud and I didn't have another set of ears to listen.
When we replaced the injectors Charlie supplied a used fuel rail and I did switch over the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that was on the car to the used rail.
Post by: MikeMac on September 30, 2017, 12:56:08 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 30, 2017, 04:04:26 pm
Better luck, next time.
My wife and I were occasionally driving one of my Fieros to work. Apparently, it did not care for this. I drove this car on numerous 5-hour trips. If either of us tried driving it to work, it would have one issue or another that caused us to have to park it on the side of the road. This happened for several months, so I parked it. During those months, I drove it to each of our workplaces, in the evenings, numerous times, without issue. The next day, issue. 4 or 5 times, it broke down in the exact same spot. I drove it during the day on weekends, and never had an issue.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 30, 2017, 04:11:35 pm
I used my Power Probe and applied 12 volts to terminal G on the ALDL. I cranked the car over and it did not start. I did get a wiff of gas smell though. I didn't hear the fuel pump run but the traffic is loud and I didn't have another set of ears to listen.
When we replaced the injectors Charlie supplied a used fuel rail and I did switch over the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that was on the car to the used rail.
I'm not the mechanic, but if you smelled raw fuel, I'd suspect the FPR, or some other leak. I'd pull a plug to check it, and check the fuel pressure at the valve. This non-start seems to be a new development, so something changed.
It should be easy to check on the cold start injector. Just unplug it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 03, 2017, 07:29:14 pm
What is that wingnut by the right decklid vent? Or is that just a leaf?
Also, what are those lines going down from "PONTIAC"?
Post by: Fierofool on October 03, 2017, 09:18:22 pm
The lines coming down from PONTIAC are pieces of the foam double side tape that held the letters on. The PONTIAC you see is remnants of the tape.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 04, 2017, 06:29:18 am
Post by: MikeMac on October 13, 2017, 05:01:37 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 13, 2017, 05:14:35 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 13, 2017, 05:36:17 pm
Post by: Raydar on October 13, 2017, 06:49:42 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 13, 2017, 06:55:03 pm
Post by: Raydar on October 13, 2017, 09:53:21 pm
Pretty sure you said you checked them all, though.
See y'all tomorrow.
Post by: Roger on October 14, 2017, 08:11:22 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 14, 2017, 09:19:11 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 14, 2017, 09:39:39 pm
Post by: Raydar on October 14, 2017, 11:30:21 pm
It was asleep for a long time. You woke it. It's mad.
Post by: TopNotch on October 24, 2017, 02:33:07 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on October 24, 2017, 06:30:50 pm
Post by: Fierofool on October 24, 2017, 06:50:52 pm
Post by: scottb on October 24, 2017, 06:52:11 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 11, 2017, 06:00:38 pm
The pump is dead. It only thumps a little when power is applied. We sloshed the remaining fuel around in the tank and dumped it. It was somewhere between the color of milk and dark chocolates. Mike tipped the tank up on end and heard and felt a thud. When he looked inside, there was a huge chunk of rust particles that had landed on one of the baffles. After all the junk Roger and I flushed out until the water ran clear, I am amazed at the amount of rust that had formed in the tank over a period of 2 years.
Several of the small fuel hoses are brittle and began to split, so we left the tank out of the car. Mike will flush it out in the coming months. The sending unit needs to be cleaned up and checked for float accuracy. We'll replace the rubber hoses that attach to it. I have the pump and sending unit and will get it assembled to save time when we get back to the installation.
It probably will be January at least before we work on it again, due to the upcoming Christmas party at the next meeting.
Post by: Roger on November 11, 2017, 10:04:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 11, 2017, 10:25:39 pm
Post by: TopNotch on November 11, 2017, 10:32:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 11, 2017, 10:46:13 pm
I have a friend who works at Sims. I'll call him, too.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 11, 2017, 10:55:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 11, 2017, 11:00:28 pm
We have at least one gas tank in the barn. Come and get it.
I think this one was because most of that time it only had 2 to 4 gallons of fuel in it and it just sat.
Post by: Fierofool on November 11, 2017, 11:21:07 pm
Post by: MikeMac on November 16, 2017, 10:30:34 am
Post by: scottb on November 16, 2017, 05:49:00 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 16, 2017, 08:09:18 pm
Post by: scottb on November 17, 2017, 04:35:09 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 19, 2017, 10:26:19 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 30, 2017, 09:56:44 pm
I think the tank is probably in good condition since Barry drove it for 2 years without problems.
Post by: Raydar on November 30, 2017, 10:05:44 pm
The new pump could be installed in place of the old one, or kept as a spare. (Or it could go into the "parts barn", but I don't see that happening. :D )
Post by: Fierofool on November 30, 2017, 10:12:50 pm
Post by: Roger on December 01, 2017, 09:17:34 pm
Post by: Raydar on December 01, 2017, 09:42:10 pm
Please explain to me why we need another tank?
You didn't see the old one, this time.
Looked like those films they used to show, to scare the hell out of people, about "industrial waste".
Post by: Fierofool on December 01, 2017, 10:41:33 pm
Post by: Roger on December 02, 2017, 06:53:52 am
And we cleaned a lot of that kind of stuff out the first time!
Then I agree...another tank. If that much stuff has come out of that tank then the tank structure is likely compromised.
Post by: TopNotch on December 27, 2017, 11:06:24 pm
Edit: BTW, The fuel pump in it is good, or at least was when it was parked. I may keep that if the club doesn't need it.
Post by: GrannyLinda on December 28, 2017, 08:34:54 am
We've decided that the club can have the tank out of our parts car, if you want it. It's an 88, so it's the right size.
Post by: TopNotch on December 29, 2017, 07:07:59 pm
Post by: Fierofool on December 29, 2017, 08:19:25 pm
Raydar may have more knowledge of how to differentiate the early and late tanks.
We may also need to purchase a new sending unit from TFS. I'm not sure the one from the 88 is any good. The gauge would fluctuate wildly when the ignition was turned on.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 29, 2017, 08:22:33 pm
Post by: Fierofool on December 29, 2017, 09:02:30 pm
How does that Fiero Store sending unit work? Any problems or was it plug and play?
Post by: Raydar on December 29, 2017, 09:28:03 pm
.... He said it also had a date sticker for late in the 86 year which would probably have made it an 87 tank.
I thought I remembered that, but it's been a while.
In a side-by-side comparison, for the 87 and 88 tank, the seam between the upper and lower half should be much nearer the bottom, than the earlier tank.
That's from memory. I could be wrong.
Post by: Fierofool on December 29, 2017, 09:35:23 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on December 29, 2017, 10:09:23 pm
How does that Fiero Store sending unit work? Any problems or was it plug and play?
The arm on the sending unit hit the baffles, and had to be adjusted. Once the arm moves freely, be sure to test the return values before mounting the tank in the car.
I replaced the seal, lock ring, tank straps, strap bolts, and the filler tube, while I had the car apart.
Post by: TopNotch on December 29, 2017, 11:02:10 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 19, 2018, 02:39:19 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 27, 2018, 04:35:34 pm
From time to time I've read complaints about The Fiero Store sending unit not being accurate. Some said they had to remove the tank again and bend the float arm. We don't really want to do that.
That got me to thinking of how we can get the new sending unit properly adjusted prior to installing the tank. Chime in please and tell me if you think my theory will work.
Assuming the factory unit is properly adjusted and using that as our template, could we take a measurement from the flange where the unit sits down into the top of the tank, down to the float when it's all the way down, then bend the float arm of the new unit as needed to attain the same measurement. The resistance, when measured with an ohm meter, would need to be equal at comparable heights throughout it's range.
Even if this works, we still have some issues with the gauges. When the ignition is first turned on, there is an electric cycling that causes the radio to pop and the sensor gauges to fluctuate in sync with the radio popping, as if a relay or circuit breaker is cutting in and out.
Post by: Slyp on February 27, 2018, 04:54:36 pm
Post by: TopNotch on February 27, 2018, 05:34:37 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 28, 2018, 07:54:37 am
Pat, since we have the 88 sending unit from the car, what if we found a point that registered, say 10 ohms. Measure the distance from the base of the sending unit flange to the axle of the float. Then adjust the new sending unit so that the same distance reads 10 ohms. Do you think that would work?
Or, adjust the float to be level with the bottom of the fuel pump at 0 ohms? That would be the empty point where the pump couldn't pick up any more fuel.
Post by: Fierofool on March 03, 2018, 01:35:59 pm
Doing a trial fit before attaching the pump per TFS's suggestion, I found that the unit wouldn't seat all the way down on the tank. I measured the distance from the flange to the metal base where the pump sits and found the Fiero Store unit to be 1/4 inch longer. Standing the tank up with the front end upward allows the internal plastic baffle assembly to move to the rear of the tank. This will give extra clearance at the bottom of the sending unit.
The Bosch pump came with a filter that is a single layer and is small and flat. I had purchased a Delphi filter, not realizing there was one with the pump. The Delphi filter is longer, round, and has a second internal sock filter. Probably to keep the outer sock from collapsing. I could see this happening with the sock filter supplied with the pump. Problem is, the Delphi filter creates a little clearance problem. But you won't have to worry about it ever falling off the bottom of the pump. Those present at the tech session can decide which filter to use. For the time being, it isn't installed on the sending unit.
The Bosch pump also came with a new O-ring seal. It is too large. The one that came with the sending unit is slightly smaller in circumference and is a perfect fit.
Post by: Fierofool on March 10, 2018, 06:43:24 pm
New Fiero Store sending unit, new Bosch pump, new Delphi strainer. The strainer that comes with the Bosch pump is flat and because it sits down against the baffles, we installed a Delphi which has an inner reinforcement to keep it open.
Due to one of the lines being angled differently on the Fiero Store unit, a new piece of hose has to be obtained. It must be about 16 to 20 inches long. I suggest you get about 2 feet and then cut it down to it's needed length. We came up about 1 inch short on the piece we cut. This is the vapor return line and where it attaches to the hard line is extremely difficult to get to. It might be a little easier if you don't have a converter on the exhaust system.
By all means, look at the Fiero Store unit and your old unit. The metal lines aren't positioned the same on the two units. Before installing the new unit into the tank. compare and determine where the vapor and the pressure return lines are and mark the ends of them so you get them hooked up correctly.
It was asked that we take lots of pictures, but everyone had their hands full and there none taken of the tech session, itself. We had Sarge, Deshoe, OldOne, MikeMac, GTXVette and Fierofool all involved in some manner most of the time.
We had a couple of guests show up and Todd was ready and willing to get in and get dirty. He was the one that finally got the had to reach line stated onto the body side of the metal hose. The two guests were Todd of TheFieroFarm fame and his friend Derek (sp?) who rolled in from the Charleston, SC area with a 3800 Fiero in tow that they were taking back to plant in his garden.
We broke for lunch about 1PM and met Ron and Susan and Pat and Linda at the diner. After a brief meeting and a good meal, Todd and Derek headed back to SC, Ron and Susan were headed back to Ron's Mom's and Pat and Linda and Dewey headed home. Bob, Mike, Dave and I headed back to Northlake Automotive to finish up the tank and pump install.
SHE'S ALIVE!!!
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 10, 2018, 07:01:15 pm
It sounds as if there was a good showing, and obviously the work paid off with a running Fiero.
Post by: Slyp on March 10, 2018, 07:16:05 pm
Post by: Raydar on March 10, 2018, 10:04:01 pm
Looks like a good day.
Post by: Roger on March 11, 2018, 10:11:29 am
Thera-flu is having its hands full dealing with this bug of mine.
Buy stock in Lysol and Kleenex.
So far Brenda and Mike haven't got it from me.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 11, 2018, 01:44:36 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 11, 2018, 01:51:38 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 11, 2018, 04:41:51 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 11, 2018, 04:44:41 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 11, 2018, 10:52:41 pm
I just have to ask: who got to pilot the fastback?
Because I was test driving it when it quit, they gave me the honor of starting it after the pump was in. MikeMac was the one who got to pull it out of the stall and park it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 11, 2018, 10:56:41 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 11, 2018, 11:14:25 pm
I am still concerned as to whether we have the evap vent and pressure return hoses connected to the proper tank lines.
Post by: Fierofool on March 11, 2018, 11:20:40 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 12, 2018, 08:38:40 am
So I will Go get 8 or so and throw them In the trash,
When you want to Install Some New One's ? Lol
Not Today, they say it's sleeting up the street Towards Ellijay.
Post by: Fierofool on March 12, 2018, 10:01:48 am
Post by: GTXVette on March 12, 2018, 06:16:38 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 12, 2018, 06:59:21 pm
Here are some more pics from MikeMac.
Getting the pump and sending unit installed into the tank.
Left to right: Standing is GTXVette. Squatting to the left of the tank is Fierofool. Kneeling gray hair is DeShoe. Blue polo is Sarge. Standing gray hair is OldOne.
Fierofool's yellow 86, Sarge's 86 school bus :), and DeShoe's 87.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 12, 2018, 07:20:22 pm
LOL! It's like changing a lightbulb. I'd have been in the third row. No, that's not true. I'm usually in the
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 12, 2018, 08:58:19 pm
Whose nice '70's Chevy pickup is that?
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 15, 2018, 10:14:49 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 17, 2018, 07:11:04 am
Post by: GTXVette on March 17, 2018, 08:43:06 am
Theoretacle Question ?. so I work On Mostly restored or being restored Cars "American Muscle" , I was talking once about what we Pay for a Paint job . And Linda said someone does their's for 1000.00 Dollars, so it's a LARGE spread from what we Pay.
Question is,
If we added up all the parts to Make (Example) The club Fast back Like a New car to Get the CLUB a Maximum Return , What do the Parts add up to. The folks I am Familiar with Spend 20 to 50 Thousand on a Fully restored Muscle Car (Make, Model) Lots of that is Labor, But we (Gafiero)do it ourselfe's,
So In Your mind Go through each part of a Car wnd write down ALL the parts that always Must be Replaced And 20 or 30 Little pieces that mostly get replaced, Map Pockets door latches seat covers, NOT To Make a car that needs work But a Like New Fiero. I say 10 to 15 Grand.
Now, What Would you Pay for a New Fiero, 25-35 Or would we lose money on the deal.
I myself would like ya'll to Submit your List's here so we can discuss, Take a few Day's Think about the Little pieces. First list er start the thread. "Final Countdown" or some clever Title,
Post by: Fierofool on March 17, 2018, 09:42:26 am
The front swaybar end links have no bushings on them. I don't know if that's the way it was installed, or if they've rotted and fallen off, but the lower end of the bushing doesn't appear to be properly attached to the lower control arm. The end of the link is slipped through an opening and a large washer perilously holds it in that opening. The car most likely needs an alignment, too.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 17, 2018, 10:07:38 am
BTW, the TFS front sway bar bushings do not stay in place; use Rodney's. The TFS rear sway bar bushings work fine.
Before doing an alignment, you may as well check the ball joints, control arm bushings, and tri-link bushings, if you haven't done so. My tri-links looked good, but when we took them apart, they were done. The new tri-links plant the rear end a lot better.
Post by: TopNotch on March 17, 2018, 10:19:54 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 17, 2018, 10:33:43 am
I know in the '90's I purchased end links for a mazda, and had to assemble the end links and adjust the length. I didn't like the swaybar angle at stock length, nor how the car mis-handled, so I adjusted the end links about 1/2 inch longer. Actually, after I put a better front sway bar in that POS, added a rear sway bar, upgraded the shocks, welded the control arms for strength, upgraded the brakes, wheels, and tires, fixed the steering rack, upgraded the ball joints, upgraded the springs, welded the frame for strength, fixed the steering geometry, upgraded the bearings, upgraded the axles, and welded the uprights for strength, it was still a slow POS, but I learned that my while my welding will hold, it will never look good. My welding isn't smooth or straight; you can see every time I hesitate, because the bead is thicker there.
Post by: Fierofool on March 17, 2018, 10:35:30 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 17, 2018, 12:52:02 pm
In the process, I discovered that up and down are not interchangeable on the end links.
My front sway bar bushings were OK, but I replaced them, anyway. New sway bars were suddenly unavailable, or I'd have gone up one size on both.
Post by: Fierofool on March 17, 2018, 02:25:41 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 17, 2018, 07:51:35 pm
Post by: scottb on March 18, 2018, 11:21:15 am
Post by: GTXVette on March 19, 2018, 01:09:47 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 19, 2018, 04:33:04 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 19, 2018, 09:03:37 pm
In 1970 you could buy a Cobra for 2500 bucks and now you can't get one for 100,000, Not that they are akin to each Other but they are a Limited Production Sports Car. Like Land They aren't making any more.
Because of just that I wish I could Buy all the Less expensive ones out there, in the last year I have seen a Dozen Complete cars for 100 to 750 . Now being a Complete Noobie in the club I know Nothing about Finance of the Club and with the Size of our club I think Money can be an issue. If Mike has someone lined up are they a Mechanic or would they Like a Finished Car.
Post by: Raydar on March 19, 2018, 09:41:45 pm
So a 300 dollar Macco paint job / we do the prep/ and another maybe 500 for pretty things aka Seat covers. and some details then put it up at 7500 take 5. Do Not Undersell it. there are likely less than Half Produced still Left.
In 1970 you could buy a Cobra for 2500 bucks and now you can't get one for 100,000, Not that they are akin to each Other but they are a Limited Production Sports Car. Like Land They aren't making any more.
Because of just that I wish I could Buy all the Less expensive ones out there, in the last year I have seen a Dozen Complete cars for 100 to 750 . Now being a Complete Noobie in the club I know Nothing about Finance of the Club and with the Size of our club I think Money can be an issue. If Mike has someone lined up are they a Mechanic or would they Like a Finished Car.
I don't think that it would ever sell for $7500. Fiero people are notoriously frugal, unless it's something really special.
I think Charlie's assessment is probably very close to right on the money.
I wouldn't put a Maaco job on it, if it were me. From what I've seen/heard about Maaco jobs, I think it would be detrimental. I'd rather buy it "as is", take my time, and put a "pro" paint job on it.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 19, 2018, 10:06:43 pm
Post by: GTXVette on March 20, 2018, 08:42:20 am
Post by: Fierofool on March 20, 2018, 09:15:01 am
We still haven't identified the base engine. It's not a 3.4 block. If I remember correctly, the casting number on the side of the block was "295", but I can't find anything that would assign that number to a GM V6.
Post by: Raydar on March 20, 2018, 09:28:38 am
We still haven't identified the base engine. It's not a 3.4 block. If I remember correctly, the casting number on the side of the block was "295", but I can't find anything that would assign that number to a GM V6.
I talked with John Willhoff, a couple of weeks ago. He also remembers it as having been a 2.8. Bored/stroked out to 3.4.
Post by: GTXVette on March 20, 2018, 11:20:09 am
Post by: Fierofool on March 20, 2018, 11:45:40 am
Probably what we'll need to do is check out casting numbers on the block when we change oil and fuel filter. We do know that it's running 3800 injectors, which probably are from the early 90's Gen. 1 lower HP engines and it seems to run well on them.
Post by: GrannyLinda on March 20, 2018, 01:59:10 pm
Agreed. The new owner can have a car whatever color they desire.
Post by: Raydar on March 20, 2018, 04:12:55 pm
For me spending money to make a 2.8 a 3.4 is not the way I would do it. check the Heads for a part number. Iron Or Alum.? I really didn't look as it was in the Air. I know the Block is Iron. I think early B O P C every thing is iron later V6 is an Aluminum Block and Buick had alumnum Heads w Iron Block.
The heads are iron. Same as the Fiero's. (Which, coincidentally, are the same as the Camarobird 3.4.) Everything about the engine looks "stock Fiero".
The first time I saw this car was in 2000 or so.
The engine was done similarly to the way ARI does their 3.4 stroker kit.
http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm2834stkr.html
and
http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/V6answers.html
Edit - Boring/stroking a 2.8 to a 3.4 wouldn't be my first choice, either. I think there are too many compromises built in. (For example... the cylinders are so thin, that there's NO room left for a rebuild/overbore.)
But remember... This was done before people felt comfortable changing ECMs, and installing DIS, and all the other "magical" things that can be done, nowadays. A whole 3400/3500/3800 powertrain swap is almost a commonplace thing, these days.
Heck... I spent a small fortune building up an engine that started out as a 3.4. It went like hell, for what it was, but it was way down, in the "bang for the buck" department. I wouldn't do it again.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 21, 2018, 06:55:49 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 21, 2018, 07:33:50 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 24, 2018, 06:07:30 pm
Post by: Raydar on March 24, 2018, 11:01:16 pm
I have often thought that the Formula should have been a fastback, without the aero bodywork, but including the base (and Formula) bumper covers.
It's become kind of a popular mod. Dave did it with this car. I did it with mine. Quite a few others have done it. Many more cars like this, than fastbacks with bumperpads. Although those look cool, too.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 24, 2018, 11:05:12 pm
Post by: Raydar on March 25, 2018, 08:52:52 am
Not sure how "complete" it was.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 25, 2018, 08:55:01 am
Post by: Tha Driver on March 25, 2018, 09:36:32 am
Like the PPG fastbacks?Very similar. You have to use the taillight section of the notchback clip with the fastback clip. I have molds for the filler panels needed to fill in the area between the taillights & the fastback clip & decklid. It took well over a hundred hours to make the filler panels on the prototype, so that's why I pulled molds from it to make the job much easier & quicker.
I haven't put them on my website yet or even determined a price for the three pieces.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Custom Fiberglass Parts (http://angelonearth.net/customfiberglass/)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 04, 2018, 08:07:17 am
In looking at the picture above, it looks as if the EGR is blocked off. Why leave the valve at all, if blocking it off?
Post by: Fierofool on April 04, 2018, 08:25:55 am
Post by: Raydar on April 04, 2018, 10:09:27 am
The only other thing that I can think of that it does, is blow the fuse for one bank of injectors, if it shorts out. :D
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 04, 2018, 07:19:21 pm
Dang. Hard to believe that page 11 was on 3/10, and we have so many pages since then.
Post by: Sarge on April 07, 2018, 08:36:07 pm
Remove side scoop
Change oil and filter
Change fuel filter
Change end links and bushings
Post by: Raydar on April 08, 2018, 09:36:47 am
If anyone is up to it we would like to meet on Sat and do a few other little things that are low cost
Remove side scoop
Change oil and filter
Change fuel filter
Change end links and bushings
Charlie mentioned going in the afternoon, after the meeting. If so, I'm planning to be there.
Post by: GTXVette on April 08, 2018, 10:11:21 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 14, 2018, 07:01:25 pm
Post by: Raydar on April 14, 2018, 07:12:42 pm
The nut that was on the bolt felt like it was binding. But that may be by design. I also found another nut, and stuck it on there, too. Your choice...
Post by: Raydar on April 14, 2018, 07:20:05 pm
Progress?
The oil, and filter, and the fuel filter have all been changed. (They had that done before I got there.)
NAPA didn't have the sway bar endlinks that their computer said they had. Fortunately, I found one in my shop when I got home. Going to drop it in the mail to Mike.
The car sounds good. Has that same thump/rumble in the exhaust that I remember. Still having clutch hydraulic issues.
Getting closer...
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 14, 2018, 07:25:44 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 14, 2018, 07:39:01 pm
The clutch slave probably needs a rebuild or replacement. Most likely it's pitted from having set for so long. I think I have a good slave in the garage.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 14, 2018, 07:45:43 pm
Post by: scottb on April 14, 2018, 08:56:20 pm
Post by: Fierofool on April 14, 2018, 09:11:24 pm
Post by: Raydar on April 17, 2018, 09:06:05 pm
Collection is 8:00 AM. Should be there Thursday or Friday.
Post by: Fierofool on April 17, 2018, 10:39:19 pm
Post by: Raydar on April 18, 2018, 11:13:22 am
That's OK. I'm a little disabled right now and am not allowed to drive while on pain meds.
Thought Mike might decide to play with it.
With that said... I heard you hurt your back. What did you do?
Post by: Fierofool on April 18, 2018, 02:16:02 pm
I didn't do anything to my back. Fact is, I didn't do anything to anything. I went to Church Sunday morning, then to Melissa and Tony's for dinner Sunday night, came home and went to bed. When I tried to get up Monday morning, I was in awful pain.
It felt as if it was centered around the nerve stimulator implant in my back, radiating to my hip joint and into my right groin. Doc says it isn't the appendix. Pain pills aren't giving any relief. Right now, it's mostly centered in the right hip joint. The pain's bad enough that when I try to walk, it makes me sick. It has eased off a little, today. I'll probably give it until at least tomorrow before seeking more treatment.
Post by: Raydar on April 18, 2018, 02:47:13 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on April 19, 2018, 05:57:20 pm
That's OK. I'm a little disabled right now and am not allowed to drive while on pain meds.
Better, now?
Post by: Fierofool on May 12, 2018, 06:37:25 pm
Yes, Michael, I'm better, but if I walk too much, it starts to hurt again.
The front end links are installed and we noticed that the bushings on the rear ones are missing, too. We removed the big side scoop and installed a stock air intake grill in it's proper place. There are 3 bolt holes in the rear quarter that could easily be filled, or the quarter could be replaced with one provided by Raydar.
It was taken for two test drives when we rolled it out of the bay. It now needs new rear tires after Scottb smoked the rear ones off when on his test drive. ;)
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 12, 2018, 07:33:22 pm
How did he smoke the rear wheels? No cracks about with hickory chips & BBQ sauce. Did he do a clutch dump?
Post by: Fierofool on May 12, 2018, 09:13:32 pm
Post by: Raydar on May 12, 2018, 09:42:53 pm
When he came back, all he would say was, "Damn!"
The car is obviously not a slouch. I was a bit tired and declined a test drive, but it looks like it's pretty much sorted.
Still needs rear sway bar bushings, but that's not a huge deal. Everything else seems to be in place.
Oh... the tach filter still needs replaced. The tach is not reporting.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 12, 2018, 09:44:31 pm
Post by: scottb on May 12, 2018, 10:35:20 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 12, 2018, 10:58:01 pm
Post by: scottb on May 13, 2018, 07:13:53 am
Post by: Raydar on May 13, 2018, 08:40:33 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on May 13, 2018, 08:43:40 am
Needs a front tire on the left. (And maybe two, on the rear, after yesterday. :p )
Ah. So he made a right turn, coming out of the lot.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 06, 2018, 06:22:46 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on August 20, 2018, 07:39:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 27, 2018, 06:27:57 pm
Post by: Fierofool on September 27, 2018, 07:40:40 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on September 28, 2018, 07:55:03 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 27, 2018, 10:46:26 am
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 27, 2018, 05:51:04 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 27, 2018, 07:44:24 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 27, 2018, 08:46:31 pm
We have the new Rodney Dickman clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on hand. I can install the slave cylinder, but with the problems I'm having with my neck and shoulder, I can't work underneath the dash to swap out the master cylinder. Would anyone like to join me to make the swaps? Any day is good just as long as I can get back home by 2:30 on weekdays.
Take pictures of the install, please.
Post by: MikeMac on November 29, 2018, 11:29:26 am
Post by: Fierofool on November 29, 2018, 12:39:35 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 29, 2018, 06:46:39 pm
Post by: Fierofool on November 29, 2018, 09:52:31 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 29, 2018, 10:13:56 pm
Post by: MikeMac on November 30, 2018, 09:03:30 am
I haven't had any inquiries on the car since putting the For Sale sign in the window. It appears we have time to get the work done.
Post by: MikeMac on November 30, 2018, 09:05:42 am
Maybe we can schedule a work Saturday for The Fastback Formula. I would do it but every time I even look at my Fiero the phone rings or a customer comes up.
I should have been more clear about a Work Saturday. I meant a Saturday in the future, not necessarily this Saturday!
Post by: GTRS Fiero on November 30, 2018, 05:48:48 pm
Post by: NoMad on January 05, 2019, 01:05:55 am
I will plan to call and come out to look at her this Monday if that isn't an issue.
Looking forward to getting to meet and work with someof you soon.
Post by: Fierofool on January 05, 2019, 09:13:51 am
Post by: NoMad on January 05, 2019, 10:33:52 am
Post by: Fierofool on January 05, 2019, 11:12:11 am
At one time my daughter lived in Austell on Anderson Mill off Floyd Rd. She worked at Chattahoochee Ave near Howell Mill. She said the fastest way was to take the E/W Connector to Atlanta Rd or S. Atlanta Rd that changes to Marietta Blvd. But I guess it depends upon which side of Austell you live.
Post by: NoMad on January 05, 2019, 02:59:33 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 08, 2019, 08:36:48 am
Post by: Raydar on January 08, 2019, 08:06:43 pm
Finally all set on routes and now it looks like we are moving tomorrow.... Life in a 5th wheel.
Hey! Welcome! I'm a bit late to the party, as usual. I can give you about three alternates (and derivatives thereof) from the west side, into downtown.
But since you're moving, it's kind of a moot point.
What part of town are you moving to? (I'm about 8-10 miles west of Austell. About six miles due north of the mall, and I-20.))
Post by: NoMad on January 08, 2019, 10:17:34 pm
Post by: Raydar on January 11, 2019, 08:28:09 pm
The Summit Racing warehouse is right down in that area, off of I-75. You ought to check it out. I could get "broke" in that place. :D
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 11, 2019, 10:56:44 pm
Post by: Raydar on January 12, 2019, 08:03:29 am
They take walk-ins?
Absolutely. Should have mentioned it's a big retail outlet, too.
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 19, 2019, 05:02:30 pm
The rough body does not cooperate with radar detectors. License plates are particularly reflective to compensate for this. COPs also like to use cameras on everything, so I have used angled yellowed plate covers. The yellow came from age, and I just keep it around, because I can honestly say it got old. The cover has other properties that only allow the plate to be viewed from directly behind. So, no driving by my house and scanning my plate.
Post by: Fierofool on January 19, 2019, 07:35:01 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on January 19, 2019, 07:37:29 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on February 10, 2019, 12:42:15 pm
Post by: Fierofool on February 10, 2019, 02:31:02 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2019, 02:10:16 pm
Post by: NoMad on March 03, 2019, 02:34:50 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2019, 02:37:49 pm
Post by: NoMad on March 03, 2019, 02:40:09 pm
Post by: Fierofool on March 03, 2019, 03:18:03 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2019, 03:18:42 pm
Post by: GTRS Fiero on March 03, 2019, 03:22:28 pm
My first Fiero only had 139K on it, and all the gauges were original. I bought it at 121K.