Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Tech Tips, Tech Questions => Topic started by: PK on January 16, 2019, 02:48:04 pm
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1986 V6. I have a small oil leak from either the "rear" seal or sump gasket. Hoping it's the sump but whilst there I checked sump perimeter and there is some nasty corrosion in places. The thought of the 100s of dollars getting a sump to the UK is not pleasant.
If I have to do this, I am wondering if it is worth converting to the later sump design? Since balancer and water pump are already off. I would only need a new sump (which I need anyway) and an 87/88 timing chest+ gasket???
The sump has done quite well since it has been ermmm 10+years since I last did it and the leak only started last year whilst stored.
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There are 3 areas back there that can leak. Sump, crankshaft seal, and rear cam thrust plate. Sometimes a distributor O-ring leak will let oil run down along the transmission to engine seam and look like one of the other 3.
If you have the equivalent of a GM 3.1 front wheel drive or 3.4 rear wheel drive you can use the oil pan from one of them. Some of the 3.1's have cast aluminum pans.
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Thanks FF. I cleaned everything and left it brewing overnight. The drip appears dead centre of the inspection plate at the bottom. It's not the dist as that's new and clean.
I don't think we have any of those enjuns. I have been googling and UK eBaying without any luck. ... Todd is hopefully sending me a balancer and other bits so will see how much a giant parcel will cost!!!!!!
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I just looked at partsgeek.com and they have a Dorman oil pan for less than $50 USD. Don't know if they'll ship and how much shipping is to the UK, but it's a new pan. Partstrain.com is another source. Very similar to Parts Geek.
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Thanks very much for looking FF. I can see on US eBay there are a few, think I am looking at $180ish for a new one delivered. Todd might have a decent 2nd hand one but really the expense isn't in the pan but the transportation. The lip on mine has startd to corrode and is jagged in places so it should be replaced.
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New oil pan is here and looks great. New untorn gasket from next village.
It is at this stage that the 'do it properly as you will be the mug doing it again next time" paid off. I modified the enjun mount years ago, so it was a really really easy job to plop out the old sump without raising and lowering various artifacts....just as well as no harmonic balancer to use as a support.
2020 and my Fiero might be back in business....
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2020 and my Fiero might be back in business....
Race ya!
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2020 and my Fiero might be back in business....
Race ya!
I'm hoping I beat both of you! ;D
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You're ON!
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Struggling for the past week or so to find enough time to clean surfaces, sealant and fit sump....so not fancying my chances in this race.
I did manage to create a big flood by not having the time to empty the dehumidifier barrel though...ooops.
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Did I not read in another thread that you have all the parts on the way?
I only have to replace the valve seals, and the cam seal, replace the oil pump, fix some grounding issues, replace the starter, recalibrate my gauges, rebuild the transmission, replace my radiator and AC condensor, replace some seals and splash guards, replace the control arms and ball joints, replace the front sway bar bushings, replace the steering rack, fix the intermediate shaft, replace the brake hoses, troubleshoot a sensor issue, fix some oil leaks, fix an exhaust leak, replace the leaking injectors, fix the coolant tubes, fix a check engine issue, fix some wiring issues in the cabin, fix the rear fascia, fix the roof, fix the hood, fix the headliner, fix the mirrors, fix the deck lid vents, and deal with some minor issues, like a whooshing sound.
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I guess I'm a bit better off ;D
MUST DO:
Idle issue needs fixing
Exhaust needs replacing
NICE TO HAVE
Headliner needs replacing
Gas pedal needs replacing
Rear speaker covers needed
Done
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Done while waiting for bits:
Exhaust remove, clean and paint + new hardware
Cradle leave where it is, clean, waxoil and paint.
Earth wire replace
General tidy up of everything including wheel well liners and rubber skirt things
To do:
Refit new sump
Re-sleeve junk "new" harmonic balancer and fit.
Fit new water pump and new belts.
Fit DR alt pulley thingy
Fit exhaust and other accoutrements removed.
I tried to re-sleeve the HB already and it didn't go well!! All cleaned and followed destructions....one side of sleeve went beautifully but the other went ridged!!!! "Luckily" super Todd sent me one but I had already ordered one so I will get a second attempt when it arrives in a week or 10. That reminds me, I will then have to re mark the timing on the re-sleeved "new" junk HB!
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Put the HB in the freezer for overnight. Heat the sleeve with a propane torch or put it in the oven at about 250* f for 20-30 minutes.
Take the HB out of the freezer and set it on the stove or counter. Using oven mitts, remove the sleeve and drop it onto the HB.
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That's what I did FF. Have my own fridge with freezer compartment at lock up now. So HB was in there along with timing chest seal.
Put sleeve and driver on the radiator for an hour and then used a heat gun.
It went on really really easily with little effort but ridged one side for some reason even though it went on dead square.
Mayhaps I put on too much sealant or the existing groove needs filling prior to sleeve fitment.
Hmmmmm.
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I wouldn't fill the groove. It could impede the sleeve as you slide it on. It would have to be perfectly at the same level as the surface of the shaft.
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The destructions say if the groove is really bad to fill the groove with metal epoxy and fit the sleeve before the epoxy drys. I wouldn't have said the groove was really bad but maybe it's bad enough.
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It would seem that this would risk unbalancing the harmonic balancer.
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In theory the groove and therefore any epoxy would be uniform but even if not the case I would doubt that it would make a significant difference. There are already some HBs with a lump weight and some without and I have never found an answer as to why some do and some don't....see the harmonic balancer thread for details and GM article!!
Looks like my new sleeve is sat at the post office for collection so take 2 to s possible soon. I spent some time today removing old sleeve and polishing balancer shaft to hopefully make take2 more successful!! Not got any metal epoxy...or indeed any epoxy so might just try again as is hmmmmm
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Harmonic balancers usually have a series of holes drilled around their perimeter. Those are a method of taking off weight to balance it. Even if it has a lump on the back, it has been balanced by a reduction of mass during the drilling process.
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New sump now fitted....something actually went on to Dangemouse rather than coming off!!!
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Progress is always nice.
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Hey, PK. If you left the sump off while waiting for the new one, did you check for mice nests on top of the crankshaft before putting the new one on? :D
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Arghhhh now I will have to take it back off to check!!!!
Then enjun internal mices are harder to find on account of them not squeaking so much, what with all that oil!
Timing chest "rear" seal now also fitted!
Next step water pump fitment.
I am going to see the "Bentley boys" before trying the other sleeve on the harmonic balancer. They are very very skilled Bentley and Rolls Royce restorers and will likely be able to tell me why attempt 1 was a failure. Will also hopefully let me borrow lathe to mark correct timing on "new" HB.
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Had a little time to fiddle with exhaust refit.
I managed to remove any irritation of exhaust spring fitting by having a good laugh at myself. I was busy celebrating defeating one of them but then realised I had trapped the ring spanner I used as leverage on the wrong side.....so then had the pleasure of uninstalling spring to retrieve spanner and reinstalling spring!
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At least it isn't just me.
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My new sping installing doo hicka Bob arrived yesterday. About an hour after I got the last spring on.
The only tricky area was the bit by the right exhaust hanger, just not much room for my chunky mitts.
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Fiero worky no oily leaky.
Thanks to all for the help
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Glad it's all sorted.