Georgia Fiero Club Forum
All Things Fiero => Expert Tech Advice => Topic started by: scottb on July 30, 2017, 12:29:23 pm
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This weeks newest issue is an intermittent cut off. Driving along the engine shuts off. Push in the clutch, hit the key it starts right back up. I tried doing a rolling start last week and got an awful backfire. Sounded like a canon going off. Since there is no rhyme or reason to it I am leaning toward the icm going out. My question is which one? Rock auto lists 2 different ac delco icms for the Fiero V6. What is the group's suggestion?
Thanks, Scott
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Rolling start, as in starting it by popping the clutch?
Replacing the ICM is a good idea--IF you can get a good one. I'd buy locally, just for that reason. Take yours in, have the local auto parts store test, and buy 2 new ICMs. Have them test both BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE STORE, just to have the best chance of getting a good one.
Test both new ICMs on your Fiero. Once both are verified good, put one in your Fiero tool bag and keep it in your Fiero.
While you're in there, check and clean the contacts, and make sure to use the paste for the ICM. I usually replace the coil and that connector between the coil and ICM.
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You will probably get a better part if you go to NAPA. They sell Standard Ignition, Echlin, Delphi, NAPA and some other brands. You may pay a little more for it, but you can also look on the box to see where they're made. Mexico or Canada are my preferences over other countries if not US Made.
Ignition modules usually don't recover that quickly. I would suspect an ignition coil or pickup coil.
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Ditto on the ignition coil
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Ok, i will swap out the coil, as I have a spare....... easier to change too. Thanks yall
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Before you replace anything, try removing the connectors from the ICM and the coil, and replace them. This will wipe the contacts. Oxidation on the contacts can cause problems.
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Also make certain that all 4 wires that plug into the ICM are locked in the connector and do not push out when you install the connector to the ICM.
Been there, seen it, taken many aspirins.
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I meant pickup coil. But test both, just to be on the safe side.
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Also make certain that all 4 wires that plug into the ICM are locked in the connector and do not push out when you install the connector to the ICM.
Been there, seen it, taken many aspirins.
The way I feel right now its going to take more than aspirin
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I meant pickup coil. But test both, just to be on the safe side.
I believe it was Cowspatoot who had a problem on a RFTH and I checked his pickup coil. It ohm'ed out good but in the end it was the culprit. Heat likely played the part here.
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Any tips or tricks for removing the distributor? I gave up after 2 hours and it will not come out...... if i could grab my hair i think that would come out easier.
Thanks, Scott
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Did you remove the holdown clamp? I think there is a C-clip, or E-clip, as well.
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Any tips or tricks for removing the distributor? I gave up after 2 hours and it will not come out.
The clamp is the only thing that is supposed to hold it in.
Does it rotate, but won't come out? If so, the rubber O-ring has "become one with" the block.
It will come out, but it'll be a pain. Might require some "percussive persuasion" from the underside of the housing.
The O-ring will likely crumble. Even if it doesn't, it will still likely be brittle and useless.
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Make sure you get a new seal (https://www.fierostore.com/Product/Detail.aspx?p=2&s=67565) for the distributor, anyway. They love to leak oil.
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I had trouble getting the one out of the Formula Fastback. Took a cats paw nail puller and went underneath. You just have to be careful not to pry up on the aluminum plate where the cap and module fasten to. You could bend it or break it loose.
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After many heave-hoes and much straining and grunting I got the distributor pulled out. ..... and I managed to pretty much destroy the upper bushing trying to get it apart. Oh well, I will have to pull the dist. out of the parts car. I also may have found 1 source of the many rattles in the car, heat shield over the crossover is missing bolt.
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Scott, I think I have a rebuildable distributor. It only needs a pickup coil.
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It looks I will need to take you up on that offer Mr. Sewell. ... the engine in the parts car is locked up and the dist. wont turn enough to come out. Let me know what you want for it and how you want to do the transfer of possession .
Thanks, Scott
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I had trouble getting the one out of the Formula Fastback. Took a cats paw nail puller and went underneath. You just have to be careful not to pry up on the aluminum plate where the cap and module fasten to. You could bend it or break it loose.
What cannot be accomplished with skill and finesse (your way), can usually be accomplished with ignorance and brute force (my way). ;)
Just kidding Scott.
Edit - I missed page 2. I just realized that you got it out. Sort of.
Good luck.
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Actually, I have one that won't have to be rebuilt. It has a good pickup coil in it. All you will need to do is set the air gap on the pickup points. It's been rolled around in my stuff and the air gaps don't match. I think the O-ring is good, too. I'm pretty occupied. Can you come and get it?
Anyone know what the air gap is supposed to be?
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The earliest i can get it is Friday.
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Distributor has been changed out. I also put on a new cap and rotor button, it fired up on the first try. It took a bit to get the timing set, I would tighten the bolt and the dist. would move. Persistence paid off. Took the car for a joy ride and the hesistation/stumble was still there. It seemed to smooth out at the end of the ride. I did unhook the battery before I left thinking there may still be a code buried in the ecm. Will know more this afternoon. Next project is to add more foam to the seat bottom.
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Put some extra foam in the seat then you won't have to redo it after Run For The Hills.
I don't know if you know about it, but you can disconnect the ECM to clear it by disconnecting that barrel connector that comes off the C500. That's the ECM power supply, and it doesn't kill other things like radio memory.
Hesitation might have been because it hadn't re-learned the sensor settings, or it could be a weak MAP sensor. A leak in the line from the MAP to the fuel pressure regulator can do it, too. And the TPS.
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After reconnecting the battery it seems to be running better than it has in a loooooooooooooooooong time. No stumbling or hesitation on todays joy ride.
I redid the drivers seat with 2 inches of new foam.... that may be a bit much but it sure is much more comfortable. Time will tell if I overdid it.
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And stumble/stalling/dieing was back this morning. After conferring with the resident Fiero expert, it was determined tgat the ICM was indeed on its way out. New module was obtained from NAPA (made in USA) and installed. Subsequent joyride provided no symptoms at all. Fingers are still crossed.