Timing / transmission

[WV Mike]

Worked on my Formula today. I changed the coil. I started it up and drove it around my neighborhood; but, it doesn't like to idle well. Had to keep my feet on the brake and gas when at a stop sign to keep it from stalling. I need to read how to set the timing, since I changed the distributor. But, it wasn't idling well before I changed the distributor.

On a side note, my transmission is still not shifting from 1st into 2nd. Hopefully, in the coming weeks, I'm wanting to get a 4t60 transmission to put in it.

[Fierofool]

The no shift problem might be due to a mis-adjusted kick down cable.  I think the correct terminology is TV cable.  It comes off the throttlebody around to the trans, I think.  I don't have an automatic so I can't describe the procedure. 

I just found it in the Haynes manual.  It's on page 183 in my book.  It describes how to adjust it.  It's lengthy, so if you have a book, check it out. 

To set the timing---First, mark the stationary indicator on the engine and the big center groove on the crankshaft pulley.  The stationary indicator should be marked at the 10* mark.

Next, let the engine run until it reaches operating temperature.  While it's warming up, remove the black cover around the cigar lighter, find yourself a good metal paper clip and form it into a U shape.

Once the engine is warmed up, turn it off and loosen the distributor hold down bolt.  Looking into the hole in the center armrest you will see the ALDL on the top of the opening.  Insert the paper clip into the bottom 2 terminals on the passenger side of the ALDL.  Hook up your timing light.

Start the car and check the timing mark location.  Rotate the distributor until the crankshaft mark aligns with the stationary mark.  Now, remove the inductive pickup from the # 1 wire and clip it onto the # 4 wire.  Move the distributor to the average of the # 1 and # 4 timing.  Example.  If # 1 is at 10* and # 4 is at 14*, move the distributor until you get 12* on both 1 and 4.  Lock down the distributor hold down bolt.

Turn the engine off, THEN and ONLY THEN, remove the paper clip.  Never insert or remove the paper clip with the engine running or the ignition  in the ON position.  After doing this, don't worry about what the timing mark is doing.  The ECM will change the timing to suit the engine's needs.

[WV Mike]

Thanks! I set the timing today, and drove the Formula around the block a few times. Seems to be driving nicely and idles good.

Other than not shifting as previously stated. I'm happy. One step closer to being a daily driver.

I got the temperature gauge unstuck with giving it some love taps; but, I don't think it is reading right. It says 100 degrees and the front radiator is hot. So, the new oem 195 degree thermostat is working.

If the temperature gauge is not working, will this prevent the radiator fan from ever coming on?

[f85gtron]

...correct me if I'm wrong, but i think the 88s' duke fan is ecm controlled, therefore, it's possible that you may only have a coolant temp sensor, unless you have the 6cyl, in that case, you have a separate fan switch (next to the thermostat housing, on the lower intake), a coolant temp sensor for ecm (directly below the thermostat housing, orientated horizontally), and a temp guage sender ( corner of rear bank head, directly under valve cover, close to the coil).   
You can test the guage one by grounding each lead out, one for the warning light and one for the guage. I'm not sure how to test the fan switch one. You can test the circuit by grounding the lead and the fan should kick on. I can't remember what temp it kicks on, i think it's 220 or something. It takes a while at idle for it to kick in.

[WV Mike]

Thanks for the info, it is a V6.

[Fierofool]

Correct, Ron.  The 88 Duke fan is controlled by the ECM.  All V6's, and all Formulas are V6, use a fan switch and relay. 

There are two things in the cooling fan circuit that could cause the fan to not run.  The fan temp switch and the fan relay.  You already know where the temp switch is located.  Single black wire, front right corner of the lower intake.  You can ground it to see if the fan will run.  If it doesn't, look to the relay.  It's located on the front wall, driver's side, in front of the headlight.  You'll have to raise or remove the headlight assembly to access it.  Easier to just remove the assembly.  I think a new relay is about $10 at the parts stores. 

If you can get in to the fan temp switch, you can probe into the black wire at the fan relay and ground it.  That should make the fan run if the relay is good.