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Messages - Roger

Pages: 1 ... 53 54 [55]
811
Sacrifice a chicken and have garlic hung around the car.

Or, when you replaced the alternator did you hook up the Sense wire at the alternator?
That would be the 'D' wire in the 4-pin connector on the alt.
You can take it straight to the B+ terminal on the alternator. It doesn't have to be a heavy gauge
wire because it is only a 'sense' wire. It will more readily tell the voltage regulator that
it has to keep up with the increased power demand.
This is assuming that there is nothing wrong with the alternator, voltage regulator or an intermittant ground.

Whoever heard of an intermittant ground in a Fiero anyway?

These newer alternators have a 'low' and 'high' charge rate. They don't vary like the older Delcotron.
The ignition system puts a lot of drain on the battery at high RPM (as opposed to lower RPM) so the VR jumps
from 'charging' to 'forget it' and back, hence the pulsation.

If the ECM input voltage drops below 10.5 volts, that may be why the car shuts down. Turning off the ignition
resets the uP to square 1.

812
I'm glad you're alright.
You sure know how to startle the fertilizer out of somebody.

There's a link somewhere on this site that has ~all the factory
manuals. Fierofool probably knows right off the top of his head.

813
The Don

What up? You still here? Hope so! A hot battery is no fun. Seen 'em blow up...not pretty.
Seen people that were near when they blew up...not pretty.

If there is no electrical short in the system, built up sulphates in the battery can short out cells.
If enough of them short together the battery will self destruct.
There is no fix. Just get a new battery.
Much better, cheaper and easier than getting a new The Don!

814
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Electronic Module
« on: May 04, 2011, 08:36:42 pm »
HEI tester is the better way to go but, I have confirmed spark.
Here's the ghost...
After installing a new rotor and cap it tried to start!
Stinky fumes.
Bad gas.
Back to dropping the tank and flushing the fuel system again this weekend then
try some fresh go juice.

815
Disconnect the battery NOW!!!
Pour water on it to cool it down ASAP!

Do not attempt to get too close to it. It will be releasing a lot of explosive gas now.
You can try to search for the obvious electrical short after it cools. Much later.

Possibly the alternator....but later.
Disconnect now!


816
The Market / Re: Windshield
« on: April 24, 2011, 07:39:30 am »
Any year will fit. Any model.

I don't know where any are.

You might try ThaDriver.

A new one will run about $225 installed.

817
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Brake Issue
« on: April 24, 2011, 07:36:18 am »
Since the brake lights would pose a large current draw, it may be a weak ground.
Check the ground near the battery. Almost directly below the positive terminal.
Also, check the ground connections between the block and chassis. That should
be the ground strap on the battery side near the hood hinge.

Check to see if the same problem occurs when you turn the headlights on.
It may be that the regulator in the alternator is weak and slow to respond to
the additional amp draw.

I think the white feathered chickens are best. Get garlic too!

818
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Brake Issue
« on: April 23, 2011, 06:30:50 pm »
That IS weird!

Anybody got a chicken we can sacrifice?

819
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / TEST THAT V6 IGNITION MODULE
« on: April 22, 2011, 06:50:30 am »
I found this website easyautodiagnostics by Abraham Torres-Arredondo who really seems to
know his stuff. Very detailed with helpful pix. I highly recommend you visit his site.
I will definately make a donation to him on my payday. It's well worth it. I've seen enough
absolute BS out there about these modules but nothing like this fellow has done anywhere.
I hope you find it as useful as I did...enjoy!

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_icm_dist/distributor_ign_module_1.php

820
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Electronic Module
« on: April 22, 2011, 06:42:49 am »
Yea. I tried the Jerk Test. There was a backfire but it didn't come from the Fiero.
After a shower and fresh underwear I went and bought an HEI spark tester.
I was too numb to connect it tho and I'll wait.
The pickup coil connector still has the locking tab on it and I'm certain it's plugged in.

Nothing more until Saturday.
Today's my birthday and I'm going to get drunk...again.

821
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Electronic Module
« on: April 21, 2011, 01:37:55 pm »
I had 2 modules checked by Advance. 1 bad, 1 good. Tossed the bad one there immediately.
Tried the good tested one back home...still nothing.
Disconnected the Tach filter...still nothing.
I have continuity on the 2 wires from the coil (which tests good) to the module and,
verified +12 to the coil.

I haven't tried colorful adjectives or threats...yet.
I need a nap.

Maybe I need to drink a beer before I try again?

822
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Re: Electronic Module
« on: April 05, 2011, 06:33:17 am »
Distributor turns. Had a neighbor help with timing yesterday. TDC is correct as are spark plug wires and rotor. Getting +12 at coil, continuity on rotor. Cleaned corrosion off of all connectors. 880 ohms on the pickup coil-good. Tried 3 modules with same results...nothing. The Tach needle just barely moves when the key is first turned on but shows no RPM's at all when cranking. Getting fuel into cylinders.
I need one of those spark testers and will probably get one when I go to get the modules tested at Advance (UGH!).

I wouldn't think that a bad Tach filter would keep it from starting (unless it is shorted!)

I hope everyone safely survived the storm last night!

823
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Electronic Module
« on: April 04, 2011, 06:19:21 am »
Anyone ever hear that if the module in the distributor (V6) goes bad, not only would the car not start but the distributor would not show any RPM's when cranking?

824
Tech Tips, Tech Questions / Need a Service Manual?
« on: February 17, 2011, 02:54:42 pm »
Y'all have to check out this website:

http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php


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