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lol
lol 
lol
Not a Fiero:
The proper term in this instance would be " Fiero Flambe"
lol
i kept getting gas on my shoes when fueling....and here's why! i replaced this one with a used one in good condition off eBay. do you know how hard these are to find now?!
I was wrong, too, about the headlights not taking 19V.
I'm glad to read that the problem has been solved. I'm a bit confused on why the previous alternators didn't solve the problem, though.
We've already met our quota for burned down highways, this month.
(Some of the internet wags are calling it the "Gen William T Sherman Memorial Overpass".)
It needs to be set up with Mike and information put on the board so people can plan to be there. The May meeting would be sufficient time. I'll tow the Fastback down if we have enough interest.
Converting from flushmounts to pop-ups depends upon whether your original harness is still intact. Cardone motors for both sides are available. The one major item that's eliminated when installing flushmounts is the solid state relay used in the Generation 2 systems. That module lists for $675 at The Fiero Store. Do some long range planning before starting the switch. By that I mean check your harness for anything cut out and missing and find the parts in a junk yard or a complete system on the forums.
I found my article in my files and edited it into the first post.
No recommendations, but just an observation.
There are two kits available. One from The Fiero Store which has a plastic gear, rubber bump stops, clips, and screws but no lubricant. The other is from Rodney Dickman includes the same hardware, an anodized aluminum gear and a packet of lubricant.
I haven't used Rodney's metal gear kit, but I have used other components from the kit. The lubricant is a clear silicone grease. In my application, the grease melted and ran out of the motor. Of course, you can substitute another grease and still use all the other parts of the kit.
All the complete rebuild kits I've used have been from The Fiero Store. The problem I've had with them is that the motor keeps reactivating and twitching. The motor can become very hot if power remains connected. The solution I found was to replace the rubber bump stops.
The plastic gears degrade over the years and will eventually break. Usually the teeth strip off at the point where the rotation stops and the motor screw gear has to exert tremendous torque to activate the limiter switch points. I believe most of the stripped teeth are because the original bump stops have crumbled and there's nothing to absorb the shock when the motor reaches it's up or down limit. The anodized aluminum gears probably won't strip. Should something go wrong in the motor, the weakest link in the system will be the part destroyed and it's up to you as to what you want to replace and what parts will be available.
