Heater core

[HarryT]

I don't get to drive "Thr Little Black Car " much.  I have had to use it for the last few days as I totaled our Honda CRV.  It has a strong anti freeze smell inside.  I am assuming it is the heater core.  Two questions.  How do I check to see if that is the problem and what is the easiest way to stop the coolant from going through the heater until I can afford to and am able to attempt replacing it.  I see a see a white plastic cap on a tee in one of the coolant lines under the front hood.  Is that there to bleed air out of the system?
Harry                                                                 

[Fierofool]

Hope you and Karin are ok from the wreck.  Assuming you are if you're thinking about changing a heater core.  The factory never installed a filler or bleeder port on the heater coolant lines as there was no need for it.  It had to be installed by a previous owner or service shop. 

The Fiero Store sells a heater core bypass, but that will take time for you to get.  A piece of copper tubing shaped into a U can be used by disconnecting both hoses in the front compartment then diverting one into the other.  The hoses are different sizes, so it might be a little hard to get one hose clamped really well.  It may be easier to get some scrap PVC 1/2 and 5/8 piping at your local building supply with a reducer and elbow to build a diverter.

Replacing the core isn't hard.  There are only 5 screws holding the cover in place.  You can look for the coolant leak in the left front of the passenger footwell.  If you have mats it may not be so readily visible.  I just replaced mine last week when it began pouring on my granddaughter's foot.  By that time it had been leaking down the side of the tunnel and my whole floor was saturated. 

Pull the hoses off the heater core nipples in the front compartment.  Get a big bath towel to cover the passenger floor before removing the cover so you catch any coolant in the cover.  Also to dry out the heater box when you remove the core.  You will need to remove the right front speaker to access a screw that's on top of the box.  I leave that one out when I reinstall. Don't leverage against the speaker grill opening to pry the grill out.  The dash breaks easily.  Place something solid at the edge and leverage on it or use a strong dental pick to lift the grill out until you can get it with your fingers. 

Remove the flasher/chime mount and just let it hang on the harness.  The other screws are around the perimeter of the cover.  Remove them. 

Loosen the screw that holds the core retainer band at the left end of the core and you can remove it from the inside.  I would recommend reaching into all areas of the box to remove any debris like leaves and acorns that may have been pulled in or brought in by chipmunks and the like. 

All current replacement cores are 1/4 to 3/8 inch shorter than factory.  Insert the core into the box and securely clamp it with the retainer band at the left end.  This is the only retainer for the core except for the metal springs on the inside of the cover.  The band clamp is the most important thing to have in place. 

Install the hoses, replace the cover and the 4 screws, leaving the top screw out.  It really isn't needed and will make the next replacement much easier, if ever needed. 

Rock Auto has the cores, both in aluminum and copper.  https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,1988,fiero,2.8l+173cid+v6,1249208,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+core,6864

[Raydar]

Dorman sells a kit that includes a U-shaped section of hose, and several different adapters.



Part # 626-001

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-engine-heater-core-bypass-kit-626-001/50000517

[Fierofool]

That's great.  Faster than shipping and easier than fabricating.

[HarryT]

Charlie and Steve;
Thanks for the answers.  I guess I should have told you the reason I suspect the heater core.  I drove it to work Monday and had to open the windows as the smell of anti-freeze was real strong.  There is no coolant on or under my floor mat or carpet.  I see no sign of leakage under the car.  Could it be something other than the core?
The Fire and Police called for an ambulance for Karin as she was in severe chest pains and had trouble breathing and took a pregnant young lady from the other car.  I had a neighbor drive to the scene to pick me up and take me to where the car was towed to, to empty it out as it was totaled. She then drove me to the hospital.  They xrayed my right hand as the first two fingers had been pulled to far apart and did damage in the knuckle.  They took xrays of my right rib cage and found nothing broken, just bruised ribs.  They took xrays and cat scan of Karins chest and found a cracked sternum.  They drugged her up and kept her in the hospitalf over night for observation.  I picked her up the next day. She is really bruised from the waist up to her neck and still in a lot of pain.  The seatbelts and air bags did all the damage, but without them it would have been much worse.
I am now looking for a replacement AWD Honda CRV if anyone sees one for sale.
Again thanks for the replies and concern;
Harry and Karin 
 

[Fierofool]

There is a drain in the bottom of the heater box.  Mostly intended to allow AC condensate to drain.  It's not as effective for coolant, probably because of the volume, and over time, the drain begins to become plugged.  When the car's cool, check the coolant level at the thermostat and the recovery bottle to determine if you're losing coolant. 

I would still remove the cover of the heater box and take a look inside.  It might be puddling and just hasn't reached the point of overflow.  It will eventually leave a heavy film on the windshield that's very hard to remove.  Even Dawn Dishwash hasn't taken it off mine.  It fogged so badly that I had to stop at a gas station and get paper towels to keep wiping it down during a 10-mile drive. 

Glad you two are reasonably OK.  It certainly could have been much worse.  Airbags and seat belts do damage, but not like a windshield or dash.

My Mom was in the passenger seat with a friend.  She was reading a paper as they were going in search of yard sales.  A car pulled out in front and they T-boned it.  The airbag broke her glasses, blackened her whole face, and rolled up the skin on her left arm from her wrist to her elbow.  And seatbelt rash and a tear on one breast.  But she survived. 

[HarryT]

I went on Edmunds and found 3 Honda CRVs in the Atlanta area that fit my needs.  I called  all 3 before we drove all the way down and they all said the vehicles were on the lot and in great shape.  We went to Alpharetta first to check out a 2010 only to find it was a bait and switch as they said it was already gone but they had newer ones.  We then went to check out a 2013  that sounded to good to be true for the price.  It was as it looked like it had been run hard and put away wet.  Last we went to the Honda dealer in Cumming.  They had a 2009 listed.  We could not believe the condition.  It was garage kept all its life and was in showroom condition inside and out.  Absolutely pristine.  We bought it and Karin drove it home.  It runs as good as it looks.
We are happy that now she has wheels again.
Now I can maybe get to work on the Fiero heater coil.
Karin is feeling much better but still really hurts if she sneezes or coughs.
Thanks for your concern and help;
Harry

[Fierofool]

 

[Raydar]

Holy smokes! I didn't realize that y'all had sustained those sorts of injuries. I hope you both recover quickly and completely.

Stay on top of the timing belt service on the CRV. I understand that current year models are due every 80K-100K.
If they break, it'll bend valves.
Don't ask me how I know this. 
We had a 2009 Odyssey with the 3.5 V6. It was pretty much bulletproof, other than the timing belt, which had been replaced shortly after 100K. The replacement broke at 217K. No telling what the "mechanic" put in, for a replacement.
I'm pretty sure the 2.4 is an interference engine as well. (IIRC, the only modern Honda engine that is NOT an interference engine is the 3.0 V6.)


Sounds like y'all have a handle on the heater core. It's really not too difficult.

[HarryT]

Raydar;
I had the timing belt break on my 2001 at 70 MPH on I85 and did no damage.  I was lucky.  It had 136000 on it. I changed it again at 181000 as the water pump started leaking.
I am waiting for the service records on the 2009 for just that reason.  It was well maintained by the book so I am assuming the belt only has about 30000 on it but we will see.
Thanks for the tip and for your concern;
Harry

[HarryT]

I found out today that the 2009 CRV has a timing chain not a belt with no limit on miles.

[Fierofool]

Did you confirm the heater core was bad and if so, did you get it replaced? 

[HarryT]

I have not even had a chance to take the car cover off with too many things going on in our lives right now.  Life gets in the way of projects.  Maybe this weekend I will get a chance to get to it.
Thanks for asking;
Harry