Clutch pedal removal for install into another car.

[MikeMac]

I was curious if anyone had a shortcut or advice on removing a clutch pedal assembly and installing in a car that was an automatic trans from the factory. I have a factory service manual for an '88 put it really doesn't have much info. The dashboard is out completely so maybe I won't have to lay on my back too much. Its coming out of an '87 model going into an '88.

Are the brake and clutch pedal on the same bracket?

[MikeMac]

I knew a few minutes would give me some answers but since the board has been a little slow (for a good reason) I thought I would throw it out there.

This website had great info:
http://www.pontiacperformance.net/CarPages/car87FieroSE_Transmission.html

[Fierofool]

I think Steve did it on one of his cars.  I've read a few times that it hurts to sit down after doing the conversion. 

[GTRS Fiero]

Although different from a manual, changing the automatic coolant lines is a pain.  I believe the manual lines run much of the same route.

[scottb]

I would recommend using a torch

[MikeMac]

I would recommend using a torch

Scott's favorite tool!

[MikeMac]

It looks like if I remove the brake booster and the clutch master the whole assembly might drop out. Since the dash is gone it may be easier.

[GTRS Fiero]

I think Steve did it on one of his cars.  I've read a few times that it hurts to sit down after doing the conversion.

I thought is was on his Formula.

[scottb]

I would recommend using a torch

Scott's favorite tool!

2nd favorite..........

[Raydar]

It is a pain. The first one I did had a wiring harness squeezed between the top of the bracket and the underside of... something. I think the dash support. I think I added the bracket that supports the clutch to the left side of the existing bracket, and bolted it in. I don't recall the second one being such a pill. That time, I think I ended up pulling the entire bracket out.
One thing that you will notice is that the manual "pivot bolt" is much longer. The original was installed from the right. The replacement will likely have to be installed from the left, due to the tunnel being in the way.

It's been a long time since I did this. I don't remember all the details, but it seems like the more stuff you can loosen (banjos... master cylinders, etc.) the easier it will become.
No useful shortcuts. Just have at it. You will spend a bunch of time laying on your back, looking up at the underside of the dash, and cursing GM engineering.