Charlies 86 SE

[scottb]

Bad juju...... lesson learned a long time ago, ensure that the battery is secured

[Fierofool]

Scott and I worked at his shop, yesterday.  We got the dust shields on the rear straightened so that they might not rub.  Both had been rubbing but I never heard them.  They also were badly bent from the cradle extraction process. 

I had left 2 bolts out of the lower intake.  One of them required removing the upper intake and loosening the fuel rail for clearance.  That was done and the rail and intake were reinstalled.  Throttle cable was connected.  Transmission cables were connected but not adjusted. 

The major thing is that the cradle nut repair from Rodney Dickman was installed and it was really a piece of cake.  It wouldnt pass through the window that was cut into the frame, but one of the factory openings at the rear will allow someone with fingers no shorter than mine to insert and push the piece into position.  I didn't remove the rear bumper cover to do this.  All done within the fenderwell. 

Once the cradle nut is in position, and the bolt started, it will not spin.  I tightened it down and the plate is large enough that it won't spin inside the frame.  The distorted thread nut locks onto the bolt and shouldn't allow the bolt to come loose.

Wiring needs to be put in place and connected, a couple of coolant hoses need to be connected and the slave cylinder and shield needs to be installed.  Final steps are to torque the cradle bolts, fill it with coolant and a battery and see what happens. 

Scott replaced a window regulator assembly and installed a window and swapped out AC compressors in his Expedition.  Easier than a Fiero, he said.

Last time the group was there we were in search of a stubby 18MM wrench.  This time, it was a stubby 15MM wrench and an 8MM ratcheting wrench.  Does anyone know where they were placed?  We looked everywhere they weren't. 

[scottb]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had the car running for a few minutes this afternoon. First problem that was noticed was a lack of fuel. Fuel pump fuse was fried. Has enough fuel to run now.

Timing needs to be set, water level checked and thermostat installed. I think there is an exhaust leak on the front manifold  also. It might need a battery too, this one doesn't want to charge.

A couple of more miscellaneous items  plus the above fixes and it should be good to go.

[GTRS Fiero]

Excellent!  Great to make this progress.

[The Art Doctor]

Sweet.

[NoMad]

Great news. Well done Scott.

[scottb]

the engine is running, just not well. My vacation started today and Leigh-Ann had to work so Mikemac and I tried to figure out what is going on.

It really sound to me like it was running on 4 cylinders, both of us were thinking ignition. First thing was to check firing order.... yep, thats right. Still had a bad miss.

Next, I pulled all of the metal shields around the plug wires. That helped but not right.

Pulled the distributor cap: very corroded. Went to the parts store and got a new one. Running better, but not better enough.

Set timing: does not like 10 degrees.

Fuel pressure check: 42# at start, idles about 40#. That appears good.

We did a compression check. All were a bit low but consistent.

Had it running, still with a miss and Mike started spraying starting fluid around the intake to check for a vacuum leak, no change. He then sprayed some into the intake and it smoothed out...... hmmmm fuel problem? Pressure is good.

Pulled out the stethoscope to listen to the injectors that I could get to, one of them did not sound right. Unplugged that injector, no change. Checked voltage on wiring harness, 12 volt. Wiring harness good, injector not so good.

Will have to pull injectors and have the rebuilder check them, reassemble, set timing, all should be well.

Charlie, you will need a battery and it desperately needs an air filter.

[GTRS Fiero]

Are injectors expensive, or just hard to come by?

[scottb]

You will have to ask Mr Sewell

[GTRS Fiero]

Well, it was asked in general.

[Raydar]

...
Pulled out the stethoscope to listen to the injectors that I could get to, one of them did not sound right. Unplugged that injector, no change. Checked voltage on wiring harness, 12 volt. Wiring harness good, injector not so good.

12 volts is constant. To fire the injector, the ECM switches ground.
The fact that the two others on that bank are firing would seem to indicate that that part is good, unless there's a broken wire or connection to just that one injector. Not too likely, but just a thought.
Got a Noid light?

[Raydar]

Are injectors expensive, or just hard to come by?

They're not too bad, if you buy them from a company that specializes in new/rebuilt injectors, and you know what you need. There are several companies around here, including one that Charlie deals with on a fairly regular basis.
OTOH, If you buy them from parts stores or The Fiero Store, they'll bend you over.

[GTRS Fiero]

I bought a set from TFS.  Don't recall cost.  Bought a new set.  Dunno cost, but they work.

[Fierofool]

Cost of injectors vary.  When I bought the injectors for my 3.4 swap, they were about $90 to buy a refurbished set.  It cost me $154 to have these injectors refurbished.  Both from Fuel Injector Connection. 

The harness is from the original engine in the 86.  It purred like a kitten.  Nice and smooth, without a miss.  That makes me agree that it's an injector. 

After Scott's vacation, I'll pull the injectors and take them back.  Their operation isn't far from Scott's.  Between the shop and his home. 

[scottb]

...
Pulled out the stethoscope to listen to the injectors that I could get to, one of them did not sound right. Unplugged that injector, no change. Checked voltage on wiring harness, 12 volt. Wiring harness good, injector not so good.

12 volts is constant. To fire the injector, the ECM switches ground.
The fact that the two others on that bank are firing would seem to indicate that that part is good, unless there's a broken wire or connection to just that one injector. Not too likely, but just a thought.
Got a Noid light?

Steve, can walk me through troubleshooting process before I break out the 9 and use real bullets? I have a volt meter and a test light, no noid lights. I understand some electrical theory but have a hard time using it in real life