Fiero No Worky

[Fierofool]

Yes, that coil is multiple vehicle.  Usually comes with bolts and nuts to replace the rivets.

The fun has started.  We have 3 on site at 3:30

[PK]

The old coil passes the 3 resistance tests specified in Haynes.  Think I will change anyway... I think you are going to have more fun today than me.
   

[Fierofool]

The test procedure I described is for the pickup coil in the distributor.  Did you test it?

Our fun starts in about an hour.

[PK]

I forgot to take a multimeter down with me today so couldn't check the pick up coil.  My hopes are pinned on this.

The ignition coil can be crossed off the list.  Old and new both test fine and neither helps no starty. It did give me the chance to clean and paint the bracket though.

I also checked and cleaned the rear plugs and distributor connections.

[PK]

To test the pickup coil, connect one lead of an ohmeter to the base of the distributor and check each lead of the pickup coil, one at a time.  You should get an infinite reading.

Connect the leads of your ohmeter to both pickup coil leads and you should get a reading of between 500 and 1500 ohms.  Your reading should not fluctuate.

Yesterday I set up everything ready for multimeter and today managed to get 5 mins to test..

First bit pass

Second bit. FAIL.  I get infinite.

Will double check readings when I get time.

I have a complete dist ready to go, so will prolly change the entire unit and then rebuild t'other at my leisure when I can source an individual pick up coil.

Thanks for the help thus far.

[GTRS Fiero]

Any progress?

[Formula Owner]

I would strongly suspect your pickup coil. I've had 3 ignition failures that stranded me. The first one was the ICM. The other two were the pickup coil. I replace my pickup coil now every time I replace spark plugs... every 30K miles.

[PK]

Thanks guys.

I am certain it's the pick up coil as it fails based on FFs tests.

No more progress other than preparation for dist removal.  Have put some penetrating oil around the clamp and base.  Marked the rotor position. Labelled all the plugs/cap. Taken some pics.

Will hopefully get time on Sunday to swap dists over.  Can't find my timing light. 

Does anyone have a recommendation for pick up coil brand/part number?  I will need one to rebuild the old dist at some point.

I also may have a water leak from the pump.   Prolly from all that nothing the car has done for a few years... But that's for another thread once it's running.

[Fierofool]

One way I've swapped distributors and avoided the need for a timing light is to align the pickup points on the distributor.  If you have an original distributor with the upright thingies, I bring the rotor around toward the #1 plug and align the pickup points perfectly.  I then mark the pickup point and the position of the rotor with a magic marker.  When I set the new distributor in, I set it up to match the old one.  It works the same way with the newer star type pickup points. 

Aligning the pickup points is very easy on a manual trans car.  The ignition coil lead can be pulled and the starter bumped to bring th rotor around toward the #1 position.  The car should be on a level surface, as you are inside your building.  I then place the trans in 3rd or 4th gear and gently nudge the car forward until the points align.  If you go past an alignment point, back up well past it then try again.  The engine should always be going in the direction of rotation to take up cam chain slack. 

[PK]

Ahhhh thanks.  I have upright thingies, that sounds like a great plan, thank you. 

[PK]

Dist out.  I was prepared for a battle but it came out with no issues.

The ICM on the new dist had the lightest whiff of heat sink goo on it so I will get some more of that before fitment.  Also the new ICM has Phillips head bolts rather than the hex head.  If I don't change then now, I can see me cursing myself by the side of the road trying to remove.  Since these are also earthing the unit... I will try and find new ones with hex head rather than doing the old hex heads.

I wanted to ask if you think it would be a good idea to swap the ICM that came with my new dist a MOBILETRON for either the orig GM one or made in Canada E-TRON?

Also want to check the pickup coil in New dist just to be sure... But yes forgot my multimeter again.

Since lack of parts/multimeter have stopped me for the day I    fixed an intermittent headlight problem by replacing the isolation relay which again the Todd guy very kindly sent me in a box of goodies!! 

[GTRS Fiero]

While you're doing this, you might as well get the new ICM tested.

[Fierofool]

It probably doesn't matter which ICM you use as long as you carry a spare with you.  At a minimum, I would remove the ICM from the new distributor and see what heat sink grease it has underneath.  If it's the clear stuff, I'd suggest the grease be removed and replaced with white or silver heat sink grease. 

You will probably have a lot of difficulty in finding the correct screws for the ICM.  Seems to be an odd thread.  Reuse the old hex head screws.  Put a small touch of anti-seize on the tip of the threads and only tighten them by holding the tool in your fingertips instead of wrenching down on it with your tool held in your whole hand.  Always be sure to carry a 5.5 mm socket with you, too. 

[PK]

I will look up tests for ICM.  Can't recall seeing any in Haynes.

FF, part of my hold up is the need for more paste for new ICM as there is a pathetic amount on it. 

We have a Mr Wharton here and if he hasn't got/can't find the correct bolts for ICM then I have no chance.

[Fierofool]

ICM's can be tested at the parts store.  They should put a load on it at least 3 times.  This heats up the circuitry.  A one-load test will likely show it to be good.