Chaz's 86GT Build Thread, 3800SC and more

[Spartanzz]

Ok so this is going to be my build thread for my 86GT The engine is at Lee's and for the moment have not decided if im going to move it to Deans because of the distance from my house. The engine is out of a 2001 Pontiac grand prix GTP, 3800 Series 2 supercharged. I got it for $300 with the only thing being wrong with it is the front main seal being messed up and the timing chain dampener was cracked. Both are easy fixes and will be dealt with during the rebuild. Tomorrow i will be going over to Lee's after work and spend a couple hours tearing the engine down to the short block. If we can im going to try and test the compression on all the cylinders and see what the readings are again. I'm currently talking with multiple people on pennocks about the swap parts. As of now here i my list:

Flywheel, 96 Camaro (from rock auto) $70.20 Machineing/balacing for the swap im not sure how much it will cost right now.

clutch will be ordered from Clutchnet later on

Computer: $100 from Darth Fiero

mounts and battery relocation: Lee will be making these and requested i not tell the price

Fuel pump: Im thnking either the AC delco EP381 $76 from summit racing, or ACDelco EP376?

Exhaust: this is still in the works but im am going to try and keep a trunk friendly exhaust and since i would at advance now i will probably get a muffler from there.

The AC lines i am going to talk to Dean about making them

Harness: $275 from a pennocks member

Then the obvious engine gasket kit and part as needed for the rebuild. I am planning for have about $500-$700 extra for all the lines and extra stuff that may come up. I am going to try and keep a good list of how much everything is going to cost so others can can view how much it may take to do it themselves as well. This will pretty much be done for as little as i can since i will be doing most the work myself and using Lee's garage and tools. This thread will also include everything i do to the car from this point on. Starting tomorrow, or the next day (when i have the time) i will be posting pics of all the progress we make on the engine and the over all swap.

[Spartanzz]

Here are some pics of my baby girl. These are when i first i got her and from the Polar bear run. I will get some updated pics later on.

[meatloafsandwich]

I will be doing this same swap at the same place a little later so I am excited to watch this progress!

[Spartanzz]

Went to town on the engine yesterday and got it all the way down to only the internals left on it. We pulled the oil pan and for some tiny metal shavings on the pick up screen and a pile of metal shavings on the bottom of the pan...Compression test was good on all cylinders and we didnt see/feel any signs of where the shavings were from. The oil filter that was on it had a nice hole through it though. So will probably replace the bearings in it just to be safe. Overall to tear it down only took me about 2.5 hours I got some pics of the tear down they will be posted later today!

[Roger]

One little note...Buy a Magnetic Oil Drain Plug and paint the head of it a bright color before you install it. That way, if you take it somewhere to get the oil changed you can make certain that they put the right plug back in. (Can you tell I've had this issue?) You'd be suprized at the 'fro' this plug will have on it first oil change after a re-build!

There's also a Chevy oil drain plug gasket that works better than any. It has a built-in seal. I'll try to find the part number for you.

[Roger]

GM part number 14090908 - Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket

It's about $3 and worth every penny.

[Fierofool]

If you have metal shavings in the pan, it would be a real good idea to have the block and heads flushed and while you're replacing bearings, do the cam bearings, too.  If there's metal particles running around in the engine, it came from somewhere and it certainly passed through all the bearings, as well as around the crank and cam. 

[Spartanzz]

Ok here are the pics as promised!

On the stand ready to get started!


Hooking up the starter to test the compression and all cylinders checked out perfect!


Supercharger pulled off








The LIM and valve covers off




Pile O Parts


This is the dampener that was cracked not the best photo but you can see two chunks out of it on the top and bottom


Bottom end off and you can see some of the shavings on the oil screen




And then here is Lee's N/A swap


I got to drive lee's while i was over there and DAMN the thing flies! Both of us are very excited to see what the SC engine is going to be like lol

And as for the shavings im really trying to avoid pulling the heads and taking everything to the machine shop just to keep down on cost and get it done asap. But, from what you all are telling me i pretty much should do that to be safe because of the shavings?

[TopNotch]

And as for the shavings im really trying to avoid pulling the heads and taking everything to the machine shop just to keep down on cost and get it done asap. But, from what you all are telling me i pretty much should do that to be safe because of the shavings?

Most likely. But it shouldn't be too hard to examine the rod and main bearings and see if any damage has been done. If the journals are all as smooth as glass, maybe it's OK.

[Spartanzz]

so you are talking about taking them out and inspecting them? Or checking out the edges as they sit?

[TopNotch]

Just take off the main and rod caps. Check the bearing and journal surfaces for scoring. If there's none, all is good.

[Fierofool]

The chain tensioner doesn't look right to me.  Has the timing cover been off this engine and it sat for a while?  The picture makes it look awful dirty and by the photo the shavings in the pickup screen look like chips.  It might just be because they aren't really clear.

Check out the lifter valley to see if there's any metal up there.  Could be an indication of how much metal circulated around and how far it went.  Since you're working with Lee, I'd ask him and let him guide you as to how far to break down and clean the engine. 

[Spartanzz]

yeah the previous owner reaplced the engine and took the timing cover off to check where the ticking noise was coming from found the dampener was crcked and the front main seal was pretty bent up. So instead of fixing it he left it all off and it sat for a year till i bought it.

As for the valley i didnt see any metal pieces there. Only other thing is the oil at the bottom of the pan was like sludge but after sitting for a year that doesn't surprise me. I talked to Lee while i was there he said the compression told us good news and next time im over we are going to do a leak down test to make 100% sure we dont have to pull the heads off. He also was kind of unsure about the metal laying in the bottom of the pan. So i guess next time im over there ill pull the bearings out and inspect them. But, overall the engine looks very good (im my eye) so think i got a steal either way for $300. Just hoping this thing gets going quick! After driving Lee's N/a i REALLY want to get mine in ASAP lol


P.S. dont think Lee will want my old engine anymore. Would anyone be interested in buying it once we get it out?

[Fierofool]

Rat Pee 86 has a pretty high mileage engine in his.  Once he gets to Florida, the higher ambient temp will cause the oil to run thinner.  He may be in the market. 

[Spartanzz]

ok because the only problem that engine has is the oil leak at the rear main seal. And since we are taking it off the trans i will reaplce that seal so all they have to do it drop the engine in.