Not running after driving a few miles

[WV Mike]

Ok, started this afternoon with replacing the heater core on my 88 Formula. I now have heat. I then decided to get gas and see how the Fiero is doing after doing a tune up and replacing the kickdown cable. Got on the highway and Fiero seemed fine, even though when I slow down and give it more gas that it doesn't seem to have power right away. So, I'm headed home, and decide to stop by Little Caesar's pizza. Get into medium to turn left, and the car stalls when I come to a stop. I'm able to start it back up, but when I put it into drive or reverse, it kills the motor. Luckily a local police officer stops, blocks on coming traffic, and with another guys help, pushes me out of the medium and into Food Lion's parking lot. I call a friend who is on his way to tow me home. I'm a mile away from the house. Called wife and told her that I'm going to get AAA next payday, especially since I don't trust the Fiero on the road yet. I try to start the Fiero again, but this time is hesitates and dies versus running like it did before. I've had a service engine light on. How do I go about reading the service engine light? Any thoughts on what might be wrong?

[TopNotch]

It could be the torque converter control (TCC) solenoid. Try disconnecting the blue wire on the firewall side of the transmission, and if you can drive that way, the TCC is the problem. You can drive with it disconnected, but your gas mileage will suffer. It should eventually be replaced.

[f85gtron]

To check codes;
Remove cig lighter cover
Look at aldl connector upside down and plug a jumper (you probably used a jumper to do the timing), connecting the two bottom passenger side terminals (will be the only passenger side terminals next to each other
Turn on key, but don't start
Lights on dash will pop up and check engine will flash codes, starting with three 12s....like Morris code. One flash, pause, then two flashes, longer pause, then again.
Then the codes come.
After the codes are done, 12 will be shown again.
Turn the key off THEN remove the jumper.

To reset the ecm and clear codes, unplug the single wire connector that is right next to the foot of the battery box for a few minutes.

[Fierofool]

At a minimum, I would suggest you get a Haynes Manual.  They can be found at most parts stores.  Get the big thick one.  They're about $15.  It has information about a lot of diagnostics and remove and replace steps and a lot of things the owner can do to avoid exorbitant garage labor prices.  Keep it in the front compartment so it stays dry.  Sometimes the trunk may leak and the book is more likely to get wet.  When you get it, take some time to browse through it.  When you have a problem, something might come to mind about what you've read in it. 

[WV Mike]

Thanks everyone. Strange thing, now that the Formula has sat over night on the street curb, I started it up with no issues and drove it into my garage. Service engine light is still on. So, this afternoon, I'm going to see what code comes up.

[Roger]

??
Didn't Greg's car do this in the 2013 RFTH and it turned out to be the trigger coil?

[f85gtron]

Rogers on to something. Check the pickup coil and the controller while your in there. If the pickup coil looks anything other than new, it's probably time to change it anyway.....just to be safe. Might as well switch over to the Viton oring and small block distributor gasket too.  That'll be the best 4 bucks you'll ever spend!
Ron

[WV Mike]

I recently put in new distributor, ignition coil, plugs, and plug wires.

[Fierofool]

Going back to your original post, when you refer to the car dieing when you pulled it into gear---did it just stall or did it have a loud clunk and lurch like having dumped the clutch on a standard shift?  If it was a hard clunk, then the TCC switch may be the issue.  If it just died, it may be something else.

I don't remember how long the car had set before you got it.  If it was for a long time, even a new fuel filter could plug up quickly.  If the engine wouldn't start at all, then later would start, it could be the ignition module.  I've had modules fail, then after cooling down, the engine would restart. 

Aerodon had problems with his 86SE stalling out and after a brief rest, would start and run normally.  A plugged gas cap could cause it, but in his case the vapor canister was the culprit.  He said that he disconnected all lines and blew it out with compressed air.  He was glad he removed all the lines because there was a log of junk and liquid that would have gone into the tank if he hadn't disconnected. 

[WV Mike]

Thanks. I have not checked the code yet. Yes, it had sat for a while. So, I am going to start with the fuel filter. It did clunk forward but died.

[Fierofool]

If it clunked hard and stalled, take TopNotch's suggestion and unplug the TCC harness. 

[WV Mike]

Ok, just checked the error code and got 32. Now to look up what 32 is.

[WV Mike]

Quick search and found this on Pennocks:

Code 32: EGR Vacuum Control

Code 32 is by far the most commonly encountered trouble code. The most common cause for this trouble code is a leak in the EGR vacuum lines. This code is often disregarded since a malfunctioning EGR system seldomly has any effect on the car's driveability, and only on the engine's emissions. It's also tremendously difficult to diagnose the problem. If your car passes emission tests and is otherwise running ok, it's often not worth the trouble trying to find the problem.

Now to see about finding some vacuum lines first, and if that doesn't work, then I'll see how much an EGR costs. Any recommendations on where to get the vacuum lines for the Fiero?

[Fierofool]

Have you tested the EGR valve and vacuum line to see if they are broken?  If you have a Mighty-Vac hand pump pull about 5 inches hg and watch for leakdown.  Without a pump:

1.  With engine off and cold, disconnect the line from the valve.  Feel underneath the valve for the diaphragm and press upward on it with your fingers.  Cap the vacuum port with a finger and release pressure against the diaphragm, but keep your fingers in touch with it.  If it leaks down within 30 seconds the valve is bad.

2.  You can then test the line by disconnecting it at the other end, reconnecting it at the valve and doing the same test by capping the end of the vacuum line. 

3.  If those pass the test, then inspect the small vacuum line loop on the EGR solenoid.  The plastic line could be good, but the rubber sleeve tends to rot and leak with age.  I've had success with replacing them with aquarium aerator line.  It's just the right diameter to fit on the nipples. 

4.  Using a small propane torch, remove the tip and slide a 12 inch length of rubber hose over it.  This will let you bend it to reach into places the metal tip won't reach.  Now, start the engine and crack the valve on the propane torch.  Pass the tip along the EGR tube and around the mating surfaces of the upper intake.  The engine will increase in speed if you encounter a leak. 

5.  If all these pass the test, then your EGR solenoid is likely bad.  I have a few.  As you found in your research, it won't affect the running of the engine.  It's just annoying and it won't pass emissions if the code is there.  You can drive it until you're around the corner from the inspection station, clear the code, then get it inspected so the code isn't there. 

[WV Mike]

Thanks, I'll try that out.

I just replaced the vacuum elbow at the EGR valve. I did a quick light pull on the lines and it just came off with no resistance. So, $3.31 later, it is replaced.

Will the error code go away on its own or do I need to reset the ECM once the problem is fixed.