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Author Topic: Motor break-in  (Read 14235 times)

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GTRS Fiero

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Motor break-in
« on: May 16, 2017, 06:51:30 pm »
So as not to derail the other thread, I started this one.

My understanding was that the break-in is as follows:
1. Run at idle for 30 seconds, change oil
2. Run for 3 minutes with low RPMs, change oil
3. Run for 5 minutes at 1,500 RPMs, change oil
4. Run for 30 minutes, 1,500-4K RPMs, change oil
5. Hard runs up to 4K, about 100 miles, change oil
6. Vary speeds, no droning, 400 miles, nothing over 4K, change oil

I think there's also a 1,000 part to the break-in.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2017, 06:58:39 pm by GTRS Fiero »

f85gtron

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2017, 08:40:04 pm »
The 1st start is critical for new cams and lifters. The very first time a new motor is started, immediately run it over 1500 rpm for 30 minutes with break in additive in the oil. That's what I've researched and has worked liked a charm.
That would replace 1,2,3,4. I agree with 5,6. After the 500 mile oil change, go 1k miles, then can use synthetic after that (@1500 miles) if you'd like and run like a dog all out!
« Last Edit: May 16, 2017, 08:44:34 pm by f85gtron »
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Raydar

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Re: Motor break-in
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2017, 05:29:48 pm »
The 1st start is critical for new cams and lifters. The very first time a new motor is started, immediately run it over 1500 rpm for 30 minutes with break in additive in the oil. That's what I've researched and has worked liked a charm.
That would replace 1,2,3,4. I agree with 5,6. After the 500 mile oil change, go 1k miles, then can use synthetic after that (@1500 miles) if you'd like and run like a dog all out!

This. Exactly this.
 
Try NOT to let the engine idle for the 1st 30 minutes. It is imperative that the lifters wear in properly to the cam, and imperative that they have the maximum oil flow possible. I think I ran mine at 2500, but whatever.

With that as the goal, it's important that the cooling system be in good shape, and be filled correctly. You don't want to overheat, doing this.
The timing also needs to close. At least close enough to let the engine start and run reliably. You don't want to wipe off all the assembly lube trying to get the engine running. (Easier said than done.)
I turned my headers bright red, while breaking in my cam. I found that advancing the wiper on my TPS helped it to run a little richer, and subdued the glow a little bit. 
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