87 GT restoration, update, upgrade, and swap

[GTRS Fiero]

Make sure you clean out the brake distribution block.

[Wreck It Ralph]

If you want to sponsor any builds let me know… that$ a lot of part$ 😂

[Spartanzz]

Make sure you clean out the brake distribution block.

I was actually looking for new replacements of that but was having issues. So, I’ll probably try to deep clean or recondition it somehow.

[Spartanzz]

If you want to sponsor any builds let me know… that$ a lot of part$ 😂

😂😂 I’ll just ask my wife for a bigger allowance 🤣🤣

[Spartanzz]

Another parts update!

Got the ebrake equalizer and connecter along with new Stainless metal brake lines set from The Fiero store! Also, things will take a bit longer. I got ahold of a guy that makes "upgraded" front hubs. They are much lighter than cut factor rotors, better fitment, and has a better bearing setup. Should also be ordering the rear seville brackets this week.

So list to order as of right now is as follows:
Both rear wheel hubs/bearings
Booster upgrade
Seville brackets
Seville calipers
Seville pads/hardware kit
Front hubs upgrade
new set of lug nuts and lug nut caps
spindle nuts and washer

Since I cant find replacements for the distributions block/blocks, ill probably be do a super deep clean of them the best I can.

Also, won an auction from a local auction site yesterday for a set of 3 metal/wood shelves for my garage! This is gunna help keep everything organized and out my the way so the wife wont be as annoyed walking in there LOL

[Spartanzz]

So Thursday I had my best friend over and we did some work on the Fiero! But it also brought some good and bad news with it.

We got the car up on all for Jack stands and remove and washed all four wheels. many spiders were purged.

We were going to remove the rear wheel hubs/bearings but soon found out we did not have a 30mm socket to get the spindle nuts off...so that will be a trip to the store today.

Something looked interesting about the front brake setup. Turns out, previous owner did get and install the grand am setup! So, there is no longer a need to buy the machined hubs! So, this will be as easy as replace the current parts with all the new stuff i already got once we get to that stage.

We then decided to pull the trunk carpet to check out how it looks. Overall, there is some decent surface rust but we are thinking with some time and a good wire wheel, it should clean up. There was also some rust on the front crossmember but does look like it could be cleaned up with some good elbow grease as well.

We also took the time to go ahead and cut into the drivers frame rail in order to get to the rear cradle bolt capture nut. The angle grinder made quick work on this and and that nut and retaining plate were pretty rusted, so a hammer and flat head were able to get it removed. But, I will need to get a furniture dolly so that we can drop the cradle out when we remove the passenger side bolt. That way i will be able to drill the needed holes for the Rodney Dickman floating nut kits.

Now the bad news.......the front hood is stuck. Neither cable inside the car would pop the latch. We spent time smacking it, hitting it with other things/tools, rocking the hood side to side, trying to pull the hood forward. Nothing would get it to pop. So we will be trying a few more things today to see fi we can get it open without damaging the hood in the process.

[Fierofool]

Rust in the bottom of the trunk is usually from a water leak.  The area of concern is the trunk walls on either side.  Be sure to inspect the rear frame rails from inside the rear wheel wells.  Up behind the fenderwell liner is where major damage can occur.  Sometimes it manifests itself through the side trunk walls. 

[Spartanzz]

Rust in the bottom of the trunk is usually from a water leak.  The area of concern is the trunk walls on either side.  Be sure to inspect the rear frame rails from inside the rear wheel wells.  Up behind the fenderwell liner is where major damage can occur.  Sometimes it manifests itself through the side trunk walls.

So far i have checked the drivers rear frame rail (pictured above) since i cut into it to replace the floating nut. There is some minor rust but not enough to be concerned about. Nothing a good heavy cleaning with a wire wheel and dremel wont fix! Which is good news. I will be cutting into the other frame rail soon once me and my buddy decide to get the cradle out.

[Spartanzz]

GOOD NEWS TODAY!!!!!

We were able to get the hood off! For others who run into this problem, what we ended up doing was unbolt the hood from the front hinges. That gave us enough play to get our hands under it and rotate it back and fourth (carefully) on the hood latch. We measured where the hood latch is and pumped a hunch of PB blaster on it. Then after all that it still wouldn't come off. BUT, this did loosen the latch enough where the cable did move it slightly (from what we could hear). I then sat right on top of the latch while my buddy pulled at the release cable. At first it didn't seem like it did anything but i jumped off and pulled up and BAM! SOB came off!

[Wreck It Ralph]

Congratulations

[Spartanzz]

Today i was able to do some work with the fiero! Not a ton but trying to do little by little. One so i don't hurt myself and two to make sure i take my time and make sure everything is done right.

First, i have the summit racing brake boost set to arrive tomorrow. So, i took out the old factory booster and ground off the rivets holding it to the bracket. That way I am able to bolt in the new booster.

After that was done, i decided i would start tearing down the drivers front suspension to get it ready to replace things. First thing I did was take out the upper control arm and replace the old worn out factory rubber bushing with the new poly bushings from the set that came with the car (that were not installed before). I also ground off the rivet holding on the rubber brake line holder. The new lines come with a bracket attached already and will be getting a bolt and nut to make sure i would run into that issue in the future.

This is where i ran into a couple issues...
1. the knuckle will not separate from the tie rod....no matter how much persuasion was used...I dont really care able saving the tie rod since i intend to replace it with a brand new one anyway....so any suggestions would be appreciated!

2. The lower control are bolts are super stuck.....i would love to get them out so i can install the poly bushings for them as well....but these are being a super pita.....only thing I haven't tried is buy a huge breaker bar and hope.

[Wreck It Ralph]

Dang. You ain’t playing around.


You gonna be at caffeine and octane tomorrow morning? You don’t have to be in a fiero, I will not be in mine tomorrow.

[Spartanzz]

Dang. You ain’t playing around.


You gonna be at caffeine and octane tomorrow morning? You don’t have to be in a fiero, I will not be in mine tomorrow.

Maybe? im not exactly sure what the wifes plans are. what time you plan on getting there?

[Wreck It Ralph]

Gabe will be there at 5 to hold spots. We have to release spots at 7am and it starts at 8am.

[Spartanzz]

So didnt have a ton of time today, But, i did get the summit booster in today and was able to get it bolted in with the new Master cylinder. I also had to find a replacement prop valve cuz the old one has one of the brake line nuts completely seized in it....This i will try to get out another day....for now i decided to just get another so i can start slapping things together.

Next is to start getting the new TFS stainless metal lines installed.....this I am not excited about doing LOL.

P.S. Wreck I woke up way too late and had a previous obligation with the in-laws :/