Break upgrade options?

[GTRS Fiero]

First place is to remove the heater motor and clean out all the debris that's probably inside the ductwork.  Remove the heater ballast and clean it out, too.  You might even remove the heater box underneath the dash and look for debris there, too.  Even after I've done that on my cars, I still get leaves, pine straw, and maple seeds coming out of my vents.  Do this before you ever put power to the electrical system.

This will happen for sure! The plan is to COMPLETLY tear down the interior. Want to make damn sure I get everything that has gathered or crawled under the dash, small spaces, hell any space that could be accessed.

I have found critters nested in the bumper covers, also.

[TopNotch]

We're kind of getting off topic here, but look for mouse-eaten wires under the center console. I don't know why a mouse would want to eat a wire, but apparently they do. They had even eaten a spark plug wire on my white car (it had been out in the weather before I got it).

[Spartanzz]

Also, TopNotch, i wanted to confirm a few things.

Is it just as simple as bleeding the caliper before you hookup the factory fiero ebrake cable? Was that the issue?

And i know it uses front grand am rotors. Which pads does it use? Grand am front or Seville rear?

[GTRS Fiero]

Not sure about upgrading break options; however, I am interested in this brake upgrade.

[TopNotch]

Is it just as simple as bleeding the caliper before you hookup the factory fiero ebrake cable? Was that the issue?

And i know it uses front grand am rotors. Which pads does it use? Grand am front or Seville rear?

If you mount the calipers the way i did, the bleed screw will be on the bottom, so, yes, you have to bleed before the e-brake cable is connected, with the caliper temporarily upside down from it's mounted position. It uses Seville pads, but you have to cut off the "ears" on one of them (on each set) with a cut-off wheel to make it fit. The Pennock's article should have info on that.

[Spartanzz]

Is it just as simple as bleeding the caliper before you hookup the factory fiero ebrake cable? Was that the issue?

And i know it uses front grand am rotors. Which pads does it use? Grand am front or Seville rear?

If you mount the calipers the way i did, the bleed screw will be on the bottom, so, yes, you have to bleed before the e-brake cable is connected, with the caliper temporarily upside down from it's mounted position. It uses Seville pads, but you have to cut off the "ears" on one of them (on each set) with a cut-off wheel to make it fit. The Pennock's article should have info on that.

Ok I think i se what you are saying. May also make more sense once i get the calipers in. And last question...i think lol. Did you have to machine down the center hub ring? (around the axel nut) in order to get the rotor to fit?

[TopNotch]

Did you have to machine down the center hub ring? (around the axel nut) in order to get the rotor to fit?

No, the Grand Am rotor fits perfectly. Some people decide to do away with the e-brake, and just put Grand Am front calipers and rotors on the rear. They both fit with no mods required. But if you want an e-brake, you have to use the Seville rear calipers and DPWood brackets with the Grand Am rotors.

[Fierofool]

I don't know about your particular brake upgrade, but some of them require the disk to be parted off the hub for the front and the vented brake disk be installed over it.  I think that's the Grand Am upgrade. 

I would suggest that if this is your case, that you secure a second set of front hubs and have them parted, then install new bearings.  Keep your original parts in the event you ever need to go back.  As we know, parts are becoming more scarce and more expensive.  88 calipers are near impossible to find, and early calipers are catching up. 

[Spartanzz]

Did you have to machine down the center hub ring? (around the axel nut) in order to get the rotor to fit?

No, the Grand Am rotor fits perfectly. Some people decide to do away with the e-brake, and just put Grand Am front calipers and rotors on the rear. They both fit with no mods required. But if you want an e-brake, you have to use the Seville rear calipers and DPWood brackets with the Grand Am rotors.

Perfect! that's exactly what I needed to know!

And I haven't taken the front wheels off this car yet. Once I get them off and see how rusted they are determines if I'm going to keep them or not. I will for sure be ordering a new set of front rotors/hubs (and bearings) cuz i prefer to put everything new on while I'm in there. If the older rotors are trash I will probably order a second set or factory replacement rotors that probably wont be opened and sit in storage just in case. HOPEFULLY, within the next few weeks, i will have the rest of the brake system ordered so I can start slapping stuff on and get this car rolling outside for details cleaning.

[Spartanzz]

TopNotch


Yet another question came up.....what of wheel stubs? Did you need to replace with longer ones to account for the new brake rotors on the front and/or rear?

[TopNotch]

I did not have to buy any new studs. But I'm not sure if the front studs were stock, since I bought the kit from TFS, with the prepared cut-down front rotors included in the kit. However, I think the stock studs will be OK. in front.

[Spartanzz]

I did not have to buy any new studs. But I'm not sure if the front studs were stock, since I bought the kit from TFS, with the prepared cut-down front rotors included in the kit. However, I think the stock studs will be OK. in front.

Ok. Wish they still sold the kit 😭😭😭 but studs are simple to bang out and find. Just gatta figure out what length I need.

[Fierofool]

Measure the amount of stud you have showing from your original to the tip.  Record that.  Then when you have the disk parted off and the Grand Am disk offered to the hub, measure the distance.  It should be less due to the thicker vented rotor.  Add the difference to the length of the old studs and order new ones of that length.  There is a formula used that determines how much thread should be captured by the nut.  You don't want any less. 

[crash_out]

I'm going to do this swap too soon. The previous owner had already obtained the brackets, Seville calipers, and parking brake cables. One of which is a longer cable form a Pontiac 6000 I think. As far as I can tell, that allows you to mount the calipers with the bleeder in the proper direction.

[Spartanzz]

I'm going to do this swap too soon. The previous owner had already obtained the brackets, Seville calipers, and parking brake cables. One of which is a longer cable form a Pontiac 6000 I think. As far as I can tell, that allows you to mount the calipers with the bleeder in the proper direction.

From dpwood in our emails back and fourth "A e brake cable from a Pontiac 2000" still never got exact confirmation from him on what he meant exactly. I decided to go the route TopNotch did cuz i like being able to use the factory Fiero stuff as much as possible.

Also, in case you dont have them or for other future reference, the bolts to mount the brackets to the knuckles are these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MG7QLDL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe i have everything i need to get my 87s suspension back together. Just need to find the time to tear down the rest and get it all bolted together. From there i can take some pics of how all of this bolts on and such.