Andy's never ending weird engine problems

[Fierofool]

E-brake cables sometimes tend to stick because of infrequent use.  When disengaging, push in the button, pull the handle up just past where you feel resistance, and while holding the button, put the handle all the way down.  Then go to the rear of the car, reach under and grab the cable adjuster, visible against the back cross member.  Pull on it.  That will often release the cables, if it's stuck between the adjuster and the handle.  If you've been driving the car without brake issues, then it's likely the cable, which stuck when you activated the E-brake

A common place for exhaust leaks is on the number 5 cylinder exhaust manifold.  The exhaust system places a lot of stress on it, where the weld is, and the manifold cracks.  I'll email you a couple of pics since I don't know how to post them here.

[cogcaviz24]

thanks for the email. i wish i had my car at my house so i can check these things out. but i didn't want to risk the 30 minute drive from my parents to my house.

[cogcaviz24]

so just for my confidence, can someone verify that if your fiero is up in the air and in neutral than the back wheels spin freely or do they have some resistance. i'm almost 100% sure they should spin freely, but i'd like to know for a fact.

[RobsFieros]

If it's an automatic then you'll have a slight resistance. If it's a manual it should spin free.

[cogcaviz24]

thanks

[Fierofool]

I would suggest that you remove the ebrake cables from the actuating levers on the rear brakes.  That will let the brakes release, unless they're stuck inside.  It could also be the sliders need fresh slider grease on them.  You said you've got it up in the air, look and see if the actuator arms are all the way forward against their stops.  I would also suggest that you obtain a Haynes Manual and read it very closely as it relates to rebuilding the rear calipers.  You can destroy some of the internals if you do it wrong, especially when you're compressing the piston back into the bore.  It might be worthwhile to just contact Don Hulse and get a fresh rebuilt set from him.  He will be at the party tomorrow evening and could probably bring a set with him. 

What puzzles me is that you drove the car home without a problem, and apparently drove it after you got home.  At what point did the brakes lock down on you?  What did you do, like setting the parking brake? 

[cogcaviz24]

i have a haynes manual and i've read some write ups on pff on the rear brakes. and unfortunately, i will not be able to make the xmas party, i have prior arrangements.

i didn't notice the drag on the brakes until after we bled the brakes, and i pulled the e-brake while my dad was adjusting the timing(haynes says to jumper the ALCL, put the car in drive,pull the e-brake and then check the timing on 1 and 4 ,add the degrees of the two and divide by 2, should be 10%). i did get the e-brake back down and the light off. i took it for a test drive and had no power, it felt like i was towing a truck with my fiero. my dad was convinced it due to timing. adjusted the timing again and got it 10% according the haynes manual procedures. after another test drive still had no power, even though the engine seemed to be on point. suspecting the brakes, i then lifted the car, put it in neutral, and tried spinning the back wheels. the driver side had some resistance and the passenger side would barely get a full turn when trying to spin it hard.

[Fierofool]

I didn't remember the part about putting it in Drive, so I checked my manual, and it doesn't indicate that to be part of the procedure.  Putting the car in drive puts a load against the engine and will give an incorrect timing reading.  I'd reset the timing, with the car in Park, after it's reached operating temp. 

Aside from that, it does sound like the brake locked on you.  It's probably in the cable, since they were working ok prior to engaging the parking brake. 

[TopNotch]

Go under the car and use some big channel lock pliers to move the parking brake levers back to the unlock position. Since you have an automatic, you really don't need a parking brake, and can put front calipers on the rear, which will give you a higher pedal when you brake.

[cogcaviz24]

awesome thank you

[cogcaviz24]

so Saturday I work on the car a little. the e-brake was locked on both calipers. i disconnected the cables at each and made sure that they in the unlock position. I also FINALLY got the distributor out, which was jammed.


sunday i went to pull-a-part. i knew they didn't have a fiero, but i thought i find an engine with the same distributor. no luck. i thought an s10 distributor would work , but when i pulled one, the shaft was different. bummmer

so i'm looking of one, anyone got one laying around

[RobsFieros]

Duh...

Whats wrong with your's? They can be rebuilt fairly cheap.

[cogcaviz24]

i couldn't turn it to begin with. it's rusted pretty bad, i think it's the original one. with the issues i've had, the pick up coil could be shot.

[Fierofool]

Hey, I just got notified that there's a 94 Firebird with a 3.4 that came in Friday.  Gonna go down there today to check it out.  That's a straight swap into the Fiero with all Fiero parts transfering to it.

The distributor on the Fiero will often be all covered in rust inside because of the ozone that's created from the spark off the end of the rotor button.  Usually the distributor won't turn in the engine because it's never been moved, and it's gummed up where it goes into the block.  Once you've got it loose, clean all the varnish off the distributor boss, and use some Scotchbrite to clean the block.  Oil it good and it should rotate freely. 

[cogcaviz24]

i found a good write up on rebuilding a distributor http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/dist.html


Fierofool: thanks, let me know about that engine. i do plan on replacing mine, when i get the money. i'll need a price as well