Andy's never ending weird engine problems

[Fierofool]

I went down and looked at the Firebird.  It hasn't been wrecked, so that's not the cause of it being there.  It had 187,000 miles on it.  Too many for a drop-in.  It'd need to be rebuilt first.

All Pull-A-Part V6 motors are $127 with everything on them.  I think it's about $27 to get a 30 day return warranty, and $20 core charge.  If you go to pullapart.com you can put in a request for a car and you'll be automatically notified when one comes in.  I keep a request for Firebird, Camaro, Fiero all the time. 

[cogcaviz24]

yeah i got it set up to set up to notify me as soon as a fiero is in, i need some interior, minor parts as well

[RobsFieros]

We've all got parts, just let us know what you need. Ofcourse I've got more than most but I'm running my business selling Fiero parts and fixing Fiero's and selling a few cars.

[Fierofool]

Go to TheMarket and post your needs.  It may be that some of the members have the parts.

[cogcaviz24]

i got the car home. still runs bad. i think i'm gonna just park it untill tax time.

so far i've replaced:
-distributor
-ignition module
-rotor button
-distributor cap
-wires
-plugs
-idle air control valve
-timed to 12 degrees (i know it's needs to 10, but it's sounds like it runs better at 12)
-plugs gapped to .45mm

i'm thinking i might play with spark gap, buy a coil, and may try swapping the ECM

[Fierofool]

Have you checked the trouble codes again to see if any more have been set?  Wasn't the car running OK when you bought it and drove it home?  At what point did it start to give you serious trouble.  What did you do to it, just before it started running really bad? 

Setting the timing at 12 will make you loose a little on the top end, though it might give you a little faster takeoff.  The car should idle at about 950 rpm when warmed up, and in park or neutral.

A coil or ECM may not help with the problem.  Before purchasing either, you might borrow one to install.  I have a spare ECM for a manual V6, and I'm sure we could come up with a coil, even if we pull it off our car and put it onto yours just to test.  I might be able to help you out Friday or Saturday, if you've got an inside area to work.

[cogcaviz24]

Have you checked the trouble codes again to see if any more have been set?  Wasn't the car running OK when you bought it and drove it home?  At what point did it start to give you serious trouble.  What did you do to it, just before it started running really bad? 

no codes now. it did drive fine in the beginning other than about 20 to 30 minute trips it would lose power and backfire. i took it to the shop to diagnose that issue and on the way there, the ignition module went out. i replaced the module. i also fixed the exhaust leak(double manifold gasket), welded the cat(wasn't sealed good).

Setting the timing at 12 will make you loose a little on the top end, though it might give you a little faster takeoff.  The car should idle at about 950 rpm when warmed up, and in park or neutral.

it needs all the help it can get on take off, it still feels like i have an anchor.

A coil or ECM may not help with the problem.  Before purchasing either, you might borrow one to install.  I have a spare ECM for a manual V6, and I'm sure we could come up with a coil, even if we pull it off our car and put it onto yours just to test.  I might be able to help you out Friday or Saturday, if you've got an inside area to work.

i'm gonna try swapping the coil from my roommate's S10 tomorrow( if it will fit, i believe it will, it's a 2.8L) and see it will run better. if it does, i should have one by the end of the week. i may be free on Saturday. my dad's gotta a decent shop

[Tha Driver]

You should check all your electrical connections (unplug & clean), & especially your grounds.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[cogcaviz24]

i tried the coil from my roommate's S10. it ran the same, crappy. i'll check the grounds later today

[RobsFieros]

So basically it's running fine with the exception of the ankor your pulling? Have you checked your fuel pressure? You should be pumping 39 to 41 psi., this would cause a lean condition and no power.

[cogcaviz24]

no it still runs bad. it sounds better in park than drive. the fuel pressure is good, one of the first thing i check. it smells like its running rich. i left the shop just under a half tank. now the car is on empty at the house. it is 16 miles from one to the other other

[RobsFieros]

In that case I'd have to go with Charlie, check your exhaust. Sounds like your converter is stopped up.

[cogcaviz24]

one of the things i did before it started running bad was weld the cat. before, i could spin the cat all the way around on the inlet and outlet pipes(looked like it was replace with a junkyard cat. it was clamped on). maybe this weekend i'll cut the cat completly off, and replace it with pipe.

and i didnt get to check grounds, it got dark too quick

[Fierofool]

If you want to get together Saturday, I have a spare OH 2 sensor that we can install.  Also, it's possible that your Coolant Temperature Sensor has failed.  The car will usually run good, until it gets warmed up.  If it has failed on the cold side, it will run rich.  How rich depends upon how far down the scale it's reading.  You can unplug it to test it.  It's just underneath the thermostat housing neck, screwed into the intake, and it sits horizontally, pointing at the passenger fenderwell.  It should run better if it's unplugged.  That is, if it's failed and is causing the rich burn. 

[cogcaviz24]

saturday is fine, but i may not have access to the shop(my dad says it may be occupied all weekend). we can do what we can in the drive way. weather looks like it's gonna be decent. i'll check the coolant temp. sensor tommorrow. let me know if things change.